Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Fancy fast food: clever site tarts up junk food

Popeye's chicken sushi

Sorry for the light posting, more reviews and news coming soon, but in the meantime here's an amusing idea: FancyFastFood takes fried chicken, cheeseburgers and such and makes it into surprisingly decent-looking dishes. If you were served this quiche or sushi, you'd probably think it looked good, at least until you tasted it.
(via Buzzfeed)

Monday, June 29, 2009

Street foods of Singapore cooking class


...sounds cool, right? The catch is that it's at RockSugar in Century City, which is known for for its decor than its authentic Asian foods. But classes like this are hard to find in L.A., especially since Jet Tila, who taught the Thai street foods class I took, has moved to Las Vegas.
So if you're still curious, here's the menu for the July 25 class:

Singapore Chili Shrimp

Newton Circus Baked Chilean Sea Bass

Bubur Cha Cha (dessert)

Teh Tarik (pulled milk tea)

Wine Pairing

Call 310-552-9988 for reservations. Price is $75.


Lobster two ways at Lou tonight!

Wow, tonight's prix fixe dinner at Lou on Vine sounds delightful:
Salad of Adriatic & Black Mission figs, roasted almonds, speck, arugula (w/Sancerre rose)
Grilled Maine lobster tail and butter-poached claw, baby potatoes, roasted corn (w/tasting flight of Veltliner, etc.)
Boysenberry-Blenheim apricot trifle w/Muscat de Rivesaltes
It's $55, and no reservations are required. That sounds like a pretty good deal to me...
Their website seems to be down, but more more info, call:
Lou
724 Vine St
Hollywood
(323) 962-6369

Vegan blog uncovers "contamination" at L.A. restaurants

Sorry, but egg or no egg, I would never order this "cowgirl pancake" in a million years, it looks terrible.

I have to applaud QuarryGirl for her Operation Pancake report, where she takes on an intensive, scientific project: testing the food from many popular L.A. vegan restaurants for the presence of milk, egg, and shellfish. More bloggers should be so thorough! It's a long post but I'll summarize: Many of those ubitquitous Thai vegan places use stuff with a touch of egg in it, and basically it's hard to guarantee 100% at any restaurant that no cow has ever breathed on your food (casein is an often-hidden ingredient derived from milk). It's the same as I tell people looking for "healthy" food in restaurants: Face it, food in restaurants is probably not that healthy. Only by preparing it yourself will you really know what's in it. Frankly, I'm surprised that so many seemingly similar vegan restaurants can even survive in L.A. What do you think?

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Fraser imagines Red Wattle pigs in Echo Park

Michael Cirino demonstrates How to Cook an Egg, molecular gastronomy style, in a groovy Italian "slow food" kitchen, whatever that is.

Dwell on Design had a day of food events Sunday, including the Gestalt of Meat panel with panelists including Sasha Wizansky, founder of Meatpaper and chef Neal Fraser. There was talk of the art of meat but also of raising more sustainable meat. Fraser, who is perhaps not too familiar with zoning laws, lightheartedly imagined an idyllic day when "Red Wattle pigs would be raised in Echo Park, sold at the Silver Lake Farmer's Market and cooked at a restaurant in Los Feliz." Moderator Evan Kleiman pointed out that one problem with supplying more locally-raised meat is that years ago more than 200 slaughterhouses served the country, and now there are only 13 (at least if "Food Inc." is correct). How we subsidize calories -- whether with cheap food that causes health problems or with more costly but more healthful food -- is a societal decision, Kleiman says.

Bring the garden right to the table in this dining room table-cum-kitchen garden.

The Social Media panel was a little disappointing -- It was mostly about how Kogi BBQ and Twitter happened at actually the right time to feed off each other. The Kogi guy brought a spiffy powerpoint to show off Kogi's marketing chops, saying that fans help the trucks avoid parking tickets by finding good places for them to park. But I did like his idea of food trucks helping eaters explore the city through food, making eating out more of an adventure. Freya Estreller from the Coolhaus truck talked about how design can improve your eating experience, but I guess I'm not really convinced that it can. The sandwiches are clever, though -- Louis Kahntaloupe is the latest flavor.
Wooly Pockets, made from recycled plastic bottles, are a bit pricey at $249 for this large size, but make it easy to garden anywhere, even on walls.

I liked the Cultivating Gardens in the City panel too, which talked about the illicit thrill of guerrilla gardening for teenagers, seed bombs and how people change their eating habits when they grow their own foods. Here's a few things I learned at the Gardens panel:
The Public School is a collection of free or nearly free, esoteric and fascinating artsy and practical classes held Downtown and around the city.
The Theodore Payne Foundation offers a three-session class to help you design your entire yard by yourself with native plants.
HeartBeet Gardening is sponsoring a hyper-local CSA for the Larchmont area; it will be very cool if this idea takes off in other areas.

Saturday, June 27, 2009

Square Meal day at Dwell on Design

If you missed the sold-out screening and food truck row and the restaurant design awards, there's still time for some food-focused programming at Dwell on Design.

Sunday at Dwell on Design at the Convention Center is the Square Meal food day, including cooking demonstrations from Little Flower Candy and more, and panels that include:
1:00 The Gestalt of Meat with Neal Fraser and Evan Kleiman;
1:30 The Food Network -- food social networking with Sarah from Tastespotting and the Kogi BBQ folks
3:00 L.A.'s thriving farmer's markets with Laura Avery and the manager of Harry's Berries
also,
Cultivating Green and Gardens in the City 12:30 -1 at the Sustainability forum.

Students are free, and tickets are around $25 for others, I think, with access to all the cool designy stuff in the exhibition hall.

Learn to make organic tamales Saturday, July 11

La Guera Tamalera, who makes terrific organic tamales with a special fluffy masa recipe, is hosting a tamale-making class next Saturday in Boyle Heights. The class is $58, but if you mention Eating LA, two tickets are $100, so go with a friend. You'll get an organic lunch and get to take home all the tamales you make.
Here's the event details, but reservations must be made by phone in order to take advantage of the special price because there’s no coupon code box in the PayPal secure payment screen I’ve set up for the event, says Deborah.

Friday, June 26, 2009

Missing your salad cream? British products FINALLY coming to Fresh & Easy

When the first Fresh & Easy store opened, it seems like nearly everyone thought it would be some twee sort of giant Tudor House full of mushy peas and Bisto gravy mix. But of course, that would have been retail suicide, and the first shoppers in Glassell Park were much more interested in their tortilla prices than Marmite. A few early shoppers reported sightings of streaky bacon and British tea, and it seemed like there were more Indian food items than in many stores. But now Fresh & Easy apparently feels it's safe to unleash a few more British foods on us. Their baked beans apparently taste completely different, I'm told...but what is the actual purpose of Country Ploughman's Pickle? Have you seen more British products yet?

Fresh & Easy: More wine, Pasadena opens July 15

Pretty classy for a supermarket party...

Wow, busy week! Before I was recruited for all-day obituary writing, I stopped by Fresh & Easy's tasting party at the Hollywood Roosevelt Pool Wednesday night, celebrating the Hollywood location finally getting its beer and wine license a few weeks ago. I met lots of blogger moms (note to Trader Joe's: they want organic baby food) as tasted some of Fresh & Easy's wines. The Pasadena location, in the former Wild Oats store on Lake Ave., will open July 15. We also met Fresh & Easy's head chef Mike Ainslie, who works in the Riverside kitchen and at the main El Segundo office to develop all their ready-to-eat meals. I'd probably buy the tangy artichoke antipasto for a party, and their Les Cepages Pinot Noir was pretty good, although I might be able to find something better for $6.99 with a little searching. Kathy said the Hilltown Vineyards Monterey chardonnay was "very oaky," and pointed out that the house brand Taurino beer from El Salvador seems very popular with the barely-legal party crowd. Ainslie said that British shoppers are much more accustomed to buying refrigerated prepared meals and don't use frozen foods as much as Americans, so he's trying to get American consumers more used to the idea. Fresh & Easy carries 180 wines, with more than half for less than $11 -- has anyone found one they really liked there?

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Jello molds go trendy in Brooklyn

Rachel Morrison's jello cheeseburger

Here's a so-unhip that of course it's totally hip contest from Brooklyn: a Jello mold construction competition. To be sure, the molds were very creative.
Will this idea wiggle its way to L.A.?
via EatMeDaily

Monday, June 22, 2009

Cooking bloggers launch GoodBite

A bunch of popular cooking bloggers, including several L.A. cooks and Paris-based David Leibovitz contribute to the new food website GoodBite. Photographer and chef Matt Armendariz, cookbook author Jeanne Kelley, White on Rice couple, Steamy Kitchen and Gluten Free Girl are among the bloggers contributing to the site, which includes lots of videos and recipes. It's a nicely-designed site, with forums and blogs as well as recipes and advice. I love the Asian-inspired recipes on Steamy Kitchen, so I think I'll bookmark this one for when I'm scrounging around the web for dinner ideas.

Urban beekeeper cooks at Canele next Tuesday

Amy Seidenwurm, who was featured in the L.A. Times story on Urban Beekeepers back in March, is cooking at Canelé restaurant in Atwater through the "friends cook" program on Tuesday, June 30.
"I'm going to prepare a 3-course menu featuring honey from different apiaries (bee hives) from our LA beekeeping group," says Amy.
The subject-to-change menu includes:
  • Mixed green salad with roasted beets, Gorgonzola and honey-roasted walnuts. Honey-champagne vinaigrette.
  • Honey-glazed pork tenderloin with Maker's Mark reduction. Corn cakes. Buttered young carrots.
  • Goat cheese and nectarine tart with raw honey drizzle. Honey ice cream.
Dinner will cost around $30. Vegetarians will be accommodated. And there's no reservations at Canele, so as usual, it's first come, first served.

Mexico Restaurant: What the people want

The L.A. Times' Jessica Gelt visits Larry Nicola's new Mexico Restaurant y Barra in West Hollywood and finds people are already flocking there for birthday parties and general frolicking. Have L.A. restaurateurs finally figured out that we want good margaritas accompanied by equally good food? Apparently so, as the latest wave of Mexican restaurants (Loteria Hollywood, Yxta) are finally starting to get the balance right. The jury is still out, however, on the more culinarily ambitious Rivera, Casa, etc., since diners are even more price-sensitive and formality-averse than before. Also: Rosa Mexicano at L.A. Live! Malo Downtown! Will it ever end?

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Partying old-style: How to amaze your guests with a vintage shindig

Ghost ladies mysteriously turned the photo black and white.

Anyone who would like to put on a raging theme party would do well to consult L.A. Conservancy mainstay and associate editor of Los Angeles Magazine Chris Nichols, who each year takes his birthday party one step farther into fabulousness. This year's 1880s Kentucky Derby theme at Glendale's historic Ard Eevin House was fastidiously carried out, down to eliminating all plastic and disposable partyware in favor of inexpensive glassware and cloth napkins. Chris's friends are the type who can actually lay their hands on a hoop skirt when needed, although the costumes this year were somewhat more challenging to assemble than last year's 1940 train theme.
Period-style refreshments included a traditional buffet spread including Southern ham, Kentucky sauce and fried chicken in the period dining room, mint juleps on the front porch, and delicious hand-cranked fresh peach-bourbon and vanilla custard ice cream in the backyard (left).
The setting was already impressive, but when the steampunk ghostbusters (above right), a pair of glowing hoop-skirted ghosts and a team of horses and period buggy arrived, we were all blown away. Now that is how to put on a birthday party. Happy birthday Chris!
Here's some more photos on my Flickr page.

Friday, June 19, 2009

Larchmont Larder: Catching up with a sweet spot

Eat on the sunny bungalow patio, or take home a whole dinner

I tend to be skeptical of prepared food-to-go operations -- either they're horribly expensive, like Joan's on Third, or everything tastes the same from sitting around in a refrigerated case too long. Besides, I can cook, so why would I let someone else roast a chicken for me? But I put my prejudices aside to check out the six month old Larchmont Larder, housed in an adorable craftsman bungalow near Melrose, because how nice would it be to stop by at 6:30, pick up a bag of food and arrive home at 7 with dinner already prepared? Very nice, it turns out, and my teenagers agreed that their $14 roast free range chicken and $5 container of roasted potatoes was as good as my home cooking, and without heating up the kitchen. We got a few meals out of the chicken, as well as ratatouille with lavender, a lovely beet/apple salad and a sturdy wheatberry salad with dried fruit. I might not ordinarily drop $40 on takeout food, but we did get several meals out of it, and the food all has fresh, distinct flavors with top quality ingredients. A few days later, I stopped by to pick up a Scandinavian sandwich on the way to work. Again, $10 for lunch at the office is out of my budget, but this was a luxurious sandwich made with house-cured gravlax, pickled onions and super-fresh pumpernickel, so it earned its keep. And did I mention the decor? I think people are just going to show the place to their kitchen designers and say, "Make it look just like this." With shiny white marble counters and open kitchen (above) with hanging copper pots -- everything is fresh and pretty, just like the food. Use it as your pantry for emergency dinner parties (individual entrees range from Moroccan chicken to grilled salmon) or picnics, or just stop by for breakfast or lunch -- either way it's hard not to like the Larder. They could probably clone the place, drop it onto Hillhurst Ave. and make a killing.
Maybe their slogan could be: the Larchmont Larder -- when you're too rich to cook.
Larchmont Larder
626 No. Larchmont Boulevard
323-962-9900 phone

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Celebrate Summer Solstice Sunday with free food!

Fox Searchlight is deploying several famous L.A. food trucks on Sunday to promote the new film 500 Days of Summer with 500 free treats at each location. Here's where to find them:

Cool Haus Ice Cream Truck
The Brig, 1515 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice
2:30 pm

Kogi Korean BBQ
Westwood Brewing Company, 1097 Glendon Ave.
1PM

Sprinkles Cupcakes
The Grove, between Pacific Theaters and Nordstrom
3 pm

First L.A. Commons tour picks Highland Park

Great minds think alike, I guess...the L.A. Commons has announced that its first Trekking Los Angeles: Local Street Food Adventures in a Global City tour will hit on June 28 will hit Highland Park, the site of our recent Bike Bender. Here's the description:
From 12pm-4pm we will tour Highland Park, providing tourgoers with opportunities to sample unique street foods from the regions of Mexico and Central America. Highlights will include a stop at the famous Blue Taco Truck and tasting cemitas (little sandwiches from the region of Puebla) at an old local haunt. The tour will include a guided walk around the neighborhood, complete with historical trivia (do you know which donut-maker originated in Highland Park?) peppered throughout and conclude with an introduction to Chicken Boy by Amy Inouye, tour guide, gallery owner and mom to Chicken Boy. The tour has an optional visit to the “smokin’” Highland Park car show, where art meets the street.
WHEN: June 28, 2009
12 – 4 pm walking tour
4 pm Optional visit to the Highland Park car show

WHERE: Southwest Museum of the American Indian
234 Museum Drive
Los Angeles, CA 90065

The tour is $20, click here for ticket info.

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Baja flavors in Lynwood Saturday

Where's Lynwood, you say? Well, it's kind of where the 105 freeway intersects the 110 and 710, so it's pretty easy to get to. What you may not know is that it is one of L.A.'s fastest-growing Hispanic communities with some great Mexican and Central American food destinations, including La Huasteca and La Casita in nearby Bell. This Saturday from 12 to 6, the Rosarito and Ensenada tourism boards are sponsoring El Sabor de Baja, the flavor of Baja, at Plaza Mexico, with food, Baja wine, music and artisanal products from Mexico. Read more about it at Street Gourmet LA's blog.

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Shake it up baby: Vintage instant cocktails

This shaker full of Party Tyme! "instant cocktail mixes" was a great garage sale find to add to my vintage cocktail shakers and accessories collection. Who ever thought it would be a good idea to mix mai tais and daiquiris out of artificially-flavored powders? Someone in the early 1960s, that's who. Plus, on the back of the shaker, it says it's endorsed by Arthur Godfrey, so it must be good, right? Was 1950s TV host Godfrey at all associated with cocktails?

Monday, June 15, 2009

Trekking LA 2009 reception features street food at Mercado La Paloma

I didn't get to go to any L.A. Commons events last summer, but they had a great selection of food and culture activities including a barbecue tour and Thai Town tour, introducing Angelenos to various cultures of the city. L.A. Commons is kicking off this year's Trekking LA 200: Global Feasts, Local Streets series with a party at Mercado La Paloma, Downtown home of Mo-Chica, Chichen Itza and more.
Good Magazine
co-sponsors the event on Thursday, June 25 from 6-10 p.m. Tickets for the evening, which includes food, music, art and more, are $20 and available at the Good website.

Banh mi truck finally coming: Nom Nom!

Via numerous tweets which I've lost track of by now, all the bloggers are excited about the Nom Nom truck, rolling out this summer on the Westside and beyond. Please, bring it Eastward as well!

Mama's Kitchen: For a handmade noodle kind of day

Mama's has takeout windows in front, but it doesn't seem like they're really used.

After several weeks without hitting the San Gabriel Valley to eat, we were feeling seriously Chinese food-deprived. It was drizzly and grey, a real handmade noodle kind of day. With a little help from Chowhound's Ipsedixit, we decided on MaMa's Kitchen in San Gabriel. MaMa's is pretty hardcore, but not that difficult to navigate. In this case, the Yelpers are mostly right: it's got a B health rating, the tables are a bit sticky, and there's no real menu, just some wall posters to point at and order from. Plus, the plates and cups are strictly plastic, so you might want to get your food to go. But it's perfectly feasible to eat in the restaurant, and get the dumplings fresh out of the steamer as they should be. MaMa's is known for handmade noodles, which most people probably get in beef soup. It's also known for MaMa, the smiling, non-English speaking owner who is apparently known for persuading her Chinese customers to order extra dishes, which seems like it would hardly be a problem, because then you would have leftovers. I don't feel like beef soup every time I go for Chinese food, so we got the chicken chow mein and what looked like xiao long bao on the wall poster. Chicken chow mein (above) might sound boring, but this dish was pretty much everything you would want in a noodle dish: great lengths of slightly chewy fettucine-like noodles with some tender chicken pieces and a few lashings of bok choy. A dash of black vinegar elevated the whole thing to an elegant example of the chow mein genre. Soup dumplings were also exemplary, with a slightly different flavor -- peanuts, I think -- added to the pork filling. There's also stinky tofu, which blankets the tiny dining room with its stench when someone orders it, and an array of cold appetizers. Watching a dad try to cajole his young daughter into trying tiny fishes by feeding her with chopsticks was definitely worth the slight discomforts of eating there.
Strange little place, but darn good food.
MaMa's Kitchen
1718 New Ave
San Gabriel
(626) 289-8984

Saturday, June 13, 2009

Tasting trip continues in San Francisco and Santa Cruz

Alembic's potent Vow of Silence cocktail: rye, Benedictine, creme de griotte and bitters. (photo by Jesse of Beer&Nosh)

We had just a small time to taste the bounty of San Francisco, but we made the most of it. Kathy wanted to stop by True Sake (below), the only store outside of Japan dedicated solely to selling sake, so we stopped in and talked with owner Beau and his charming daughters. We looked around the blossoming Hayes St. neighborhood at the adorable Frjtz, dedicated to Belgian fries and mussels (explain to me why we can't have this in L.A.?), made a note to try Suppenkuche, Sebo and Bar Jules on our next trip and had a knockout chocolatey iced coffee and some beans to take home from Blue Bottle.Lunch was an impossibly rich sheep's milk cheese and almond sandwich (above) on flavorful bread and a piece of flaky, delicate quiche Lorraine at Tartine Bakery. It was impossible to fit in all the ice cream I wanted to try, so I deputized Kathy to taste the Ritual coffee/toffee at Bi-Rite Creamery -- a bit too heavy for my taste -- while I tried caramel with balsamic vinegar at Humphrey Slocombe, one of the best flavors I've ever had. Their chocolate tamarind and peanut butter curry also hit just the right note for my ice cream sweet spot, which lies somewhere between Pazzo Gelato's quality fabrication and Scoops' bizarre combos. We worked up cocktail appetites strolling around the Sutro Baths, then repaired to Haight St.'s Alembic for cocktails. Recommended by Golden State's Jason Bernstein as one of the top bars anywhere, Alembic specializes in carefully crafted cocktails made with craft liquors, a well curated beer list and a fascinating nose-to-tail menu which, unfortunately, we didn't get to taste. I tried a Vow of Silence and a variation on a Monte Carlo that the bartender invented for me, and we also tried a Promissory Note and some killer daiquiris and margaritas. At Alembic, we ran into Jesse from S.F. beer and food blog Beer & Nosh, taking pictures of the bone marrow dish. We were basically sloshed and stuffed by then, but we also enjoyed tasting four different ceviches (above), including one with coconut milk, at Fresca, a mini-chain of nouveau Peruvian restaurants. Peru-mania seems to have already hit San Francisco, and looks to be taking off in L.A. too, between Mo-chica and the upcoming Osaka, if it ever gets finished. The next day, we drove down the coast to Santa Cruz, stopping to buy fresh artichokes, peas, strawberries and cherries as well as some local beers like this can of Siamese Twin Ale from Santa Cruz's Uncommon Brewers.
Best of all, we're already started on our list of places to try next time, including Jesse's recommendations of Magnolia, Weird Fish and Coco 500.
What else should we add to the list for next time?
Here's some previous EatingLA Bay Area trips: 2006 and 2008.

Road trip! Eating LA tastes Berkeley/Oakland

The woodsy-meets-industrial exterior of the new Berkeley Bowl West fits its warehouse neighborhood well.

EatingLA tagged along with faithful taster Kathy to pick up her son at UC Santa Cruz, and we decided to try to fit in some good eating along the way. I'm always squeezing a lot of eating into just a few days when I'm up there, and this time was no exception. The first night we were staying in Berkeley, so my sister suggested dinner at Luka's Tap Room, a casual gastropub with an excellent menu and not all that many tables. The scene at popular Luka's in Oakland.

We passed the long wait tasting various Belgian and other beers and chatting with my sister Joan's next door neighbor Alice, who is justifiably known as the queen of chocolate. I tried a creamy Old Speckled Hen on nitrogen, and we also tried an Avery Collaboration not Litigation ale from Russian River Brewing, Dogfish Head IPA and Blue Star Hefweizen. We shared a garlicky and rich selection of mussels bouillabaisse style, chorizo and corn fritters, fried green tomato salad, crispy steelhead trout with foraged mushrooms and terrific Belgian fries with chipotle aioli. The next morning, we stopped by the brand-new Berkeley Bowl West. I used to live near the original Berkeley Bowl when it was still in a converted bowling alley, so I wanted to see the huge new branch of one of the world's great supermarkets. It's a beautiful airy space with a vast produce department and really good prices for lots of unusual products and unfortunately there's nothing really like it in L.A. I picked up strawberry rhubarb marmalade, well-priced farro, some of their house brand vinegars and a whole grain berry scone.
Next stop: San Francisco.
Excellent prices on local berries at the Berkeley Bowl

Friday, June 12, 2009

What's been happening? Greater Silver Lake news for the week

The perfect light lunch: grilled salmon salad from BLD

You go away for just three days, and you miss all kinds of stuff in the L.A. food world. Here's some of the things that happened, in case you too were offline or otherwise engaged.

The Atwater Farmer's Market is being evicted; you can write to Wells Fargo to protest.

There's a benefit tonight at Spaceland for the beloved Taco Zone truck, which may have been the victim of jealous competitors or criminals wanting protection money.

I missed Sonic Youth-flavored pizza, whatever that is, at Two Boots. Darn.

BLD comes to Pasadena, and other Pasadena dining news.

Anything else going on around town, especially east of Hollywood?

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Can we really change food policy after watching Food Inc.?


The documentary Food, Inc., which opens Friday at the Nuart and moves to the Landmark on June 19, is pretty much guaranteed to change your mind about what America eats and where it comes from.
Here's Variety's review with the memorable blurb "Does for the supermarket what 'Jaws' did for the beach."
But many charge that documentaries like Food, Inc., Food Fight and Fresh are preaching to the converted. Clearly many of the people in communities where Food Inc. is set to play, like Berkeley, San Rafael and Portland, are already aware of the vast problems with the U.S. food system. Participant Films, the backers of Food, Inc., do try to give viewers information they can use to make positive changes after viewing their films. Some of the 10 suggestions provided for Food Inc. include: Stop drinking sodas; visit your local farmer's market; and go without meat once a week. Fine on an individual level, but I don't quite see how most of these could lead to actual changes in industrial food production. It's a good start, but a better farm bill would help even more.
What do you think chefs, writers and enthusiastic eaters can do to start to overhaul the dangerous, polluting, obesity-causing industrial food system?

Tuesday, June 09, 2009

No Cookie Left Behind bake sale Sunday at Scoops

Don't miss the third annual No Cookie Left Behind Bake Sale on Sunday, June 14 at Scoops from 2-6 pm, as part of Share Our Strength's Great American Bake Sale. Share Our Strength is dedicated to the cause of ending world hunger, and the proceeds from GABS specifically go towards fighting childhood hunger in the United States.
You can sign up to contribute baked goods, buy home baked treats or taste items from
Lark Cake Shop, CakeMonkey, Kiss My Bundt Bakery, Spork Foods (vegan), Laurel Avenue Bakery, Whisk LA and Taste on Melrose. There will also be small-batch jams (strawberry balsamic with rosemary and blood orange marmalade are two of the varieties) and handcrafted No Cookie Left Behind onesies.

Monday, June 08, 2009

Eating L.A. visits Heidar Baba, while the NY Times goes Persian too

Last Friday, we celebrated my son's 18th birthday at Pasadena's Heidar Baba. He chose the Persian restaurant because he had served their kebabs during his report on Iran at Pasadena City College across the street. Portions are Heidar Baba are huge, and the grilled meats are quite good. I can't run photos of fesenjon chicken, because it looks like brown mud, but although the pomegranate and nut flavors weren't quite bright enough the first day, the leftovers were excellent. Service was on the poky side, but Heidar Baba is still a solid choice for takeout or a pre-Bulgarini Gelato meal.
The New York Times also visited L.A.'s Persian enclave this weekend, and in addition to the usual Westwood stops, the writer of Persian Cooking Finds a Home in Los Angeles visits the lesser-known It's All Good House of Kebab in Reseda.

Sunday, June 07, 2009

Bulgarini's wonderful raw milk gelato discovered by the gelato detective

Bulgarini Gelato: Don't forget to ask about the unmarked flavors

It helps to be really persistent to find out what's good at Bulgarini Gelato Artigianale. First, you need to make the commitment to drive several miles north of Pasadena to the sleepy town of Altadena, where Bulgarini shares a small shopping center with Rite-Aid. "It feels like we're on vacation in another city," says my son, and indeed, it feels like we're in Palm Springs or somewhere far outside L.A.
You can order coffee or chocolate gelato right away, as my kids do, or if, like me, you're a gelato detective, you can patiently ask for tastes of three or four unmarked gelati at the rear of the case. If you do, you will be rewarded with a delicately floral white tea/jasmine tea gelato which was the perfect finish our rich Persian dinner at Heidar Baba.
Even better, though, is the raw milk lime gelato that Leo Bulgarini was serving when we were there on Friday evening. He explained that it's safe for anyone because he lightly pasteurizes the raw milk, which he gets at Whole Foods. Apparently the DIY pasteurization is enough to kill the germs, but not the flavor of the fresh milk. In Italy, there are at least half a dozen types of "plain" gelato. There's vanilla, of course, and zabiglione with eggs and marsala, and crema with eggs. But the most pure is fior di latte, the flower of milk. Bulgarini infused his raw milk fior di latte with a hint of lime zest, which brings a subtle citrusy note without overpowering the grassy flavor of the fresh milk. Chocolate orange gelato was also intense and perfectly balanced. I'm not sure how I would feel about a whole cup of the olive oil yogurt flavor -- I love salty flavors but I'm not sure it works with the tart yogurt.
Unless you're my ex-husband or Jonathan Gold, Bulgarini probably isn't very convenient. But raw milk lime gelato isn't found on just any old street corner, so it's well worth the trip.
Bulgarini Gelato Artigianale
749 E. Altadena Dr. (near Lake)
Altadena
(626) 791-6174

Taco Zone truck hit by vandals, thank goodness they've got a spare


EatingLA is saddened to learn that Echo Park's beloved Taco Zone truck was apparently burned by vandals late Friday night. Fortunately, there's more than one Taco Zone truck, so there won't be a taco outage, and the taco ladies are ok. Tensions seem to really be simmering in the Echo Park, Atwater and Silver Lake areas lately, and I hope the people who did this are brought to justice quickly because YOU DON'T MESS WITH OUR TACO LADIES.

Friday, June 05, 2009

Historic L.A.: Senor Pico was Trader Vic's Mexican cousin


It was fun reading in today's My Favorite Weekend that Peter Bogdanovich used to hang out with Orson Welles at Senor Pico in Century City. I love that Boganovich "doesn't think it's there anymore." Yes, Peter, it was torn down probably around 1980 or so. As a Westside white kid, Senor Pico was one of the few "Mexican" restaurants available to my family until my high school friends started driving me to El Tepeyac. It was surely not very authentic, but I hadn't realized that Senor Pico, which was and still is owned by Trader Vic's, was quite influential in popularizing the Cal-Mex food that so many restaurants serve today. And Senor Pico survives to this day in Bangkok and I think Dubai or somewhere. I can only imagine what the Thai version of Cal-Mex food might look like.
Here's an excerpt from an article in Nation's Restaurant News about the history of Cal-Mex:

Another creator and popularizer of Cal-Mex food was Victor J. Bergeron, known as "Trader Vic," who in 1933 founded what would become his eponymous restaurant chain in Oakland, Calif. After several Trader Vic's outlets were up and running, Bergeron looked around for other possibilities. He later wrote that he'd had "a mad-on for Mexican food for a thousand years," but he found the real thing "primitive," "greasy, hot and not well prepared." Bergeron spent a couple weeks in Mexico and Texas looking for recipes that he could adapt to the tastes of mainstream Americans. He also popularized the margarita, a drink that likely was invented in bars in Mexico that catered to American tourists.

Bergeron opened a restaurant called "Senor Pico" in San Francisco in 1964 and another one in Los Angeles three years later. By 1973 the Senor Pico restaurants sold more tequila than any other restaurant in the world. The margarita became a foundation stone of the Cal-Mex culinary tradition and a fixture in restaurants and bars throughout the United States.

(menus from the LA Public Library)

Thursday, June 04, 2009

Bottle Rock livens up Downtown's South Park

Risotto with ginger, pork belly, pig ear terrine and cubed pork, topped with Chinese-style pork floss

Downtown's South Park/Staples-L.A. Live area is still feeling rather corporate and sterile. But things are starting to perk up around the edges, with lively wine bars like BottleRock and Corkbar providing a more sophisticated alternative to the area's oversupply of sports bars. Tuesday night's media tasting at BottleRock in the Metropolitan Lofts showed off some of the dishes chef Jared Levy has introduced, along with general manager George Skorka's always-excellent wine selections. Downtown's BottleRock has a different feel from its original Culver City brother, with a series of intimate, low-ceilinged rooms lined with bottles of wine for sale instead of one large store-like space.
With a real kitchen available, the menu is more ambitious, with dishes that reflect Levy's stints in Japan and at Providence and Blue Velvet. The tasting menu was lovely, with imaginitive combinations like fava and pistachio falafel and agnolotti with bacon and dates. I'm not a huge chardonnay fan, but the Kalin Cellars Sonoma County chardonnay was really full and pleasant. There's also a choice selection of microbrews selected by Red Carpet Wine's Alex Macy.
To me, wine bars are more fun for informal get-togethers rather than for complicated dishes, so I would point you to Rush Hour menu from 4-6:30 Monday-Friday, with Truffle grilled cheese for $6 and a 3-cheese plate for $9, and to Bottlerock's solid selection of cheese and artisan and house made charcuterie.
BottleRock Downtown
1050 S. Flower St.
Downtown L.A.
(213)747-1100

Wednesday, June 03, 2009

Taste of the Nation looking for volunteers

Taste of the Nation is coming up June 14 in Culver City and could still use a few more volunteers. More than 45 restaurants including Bazaar and Animal are participating so I imagine the volunteers will work hard but get plenty of tastes. Check out the website at Tasteofthenationla.org and then contact Paul Dreyer, dreyer@rand.org or 310/383-3499 for info on volunteering.

Taste of the Nation is held in Culver City from 1-4 pm and there's also a Mole cookoff with Jonathan Gold, cooking demonstrations and an honorary award for Nancy Silverton. Proceeds go to Share our Strength to fight children's hunger, and tickets start at $115.

Tuesday, June 02, 2009

Mini bites doesn't bite, says nearby worker

My friend Layne works just down the street from the new Mini-Bites, which replaced Sean's Burgers. She posted her first impressions on Chowhound:
"It ain’t Jayburger but it’s a real improvement over Sean’s," she writes.

Icemen cometh to Chuch & State


"Ice is the difference between a good drink and a great drink," contends Jon Santer (pictured above). Santer, a mixologist and liquor consultant who led Monday night's Ice 101 seminar for bartenders and writers at Church & State, is an ice zealot along with Neve Luxury Ice founder Michel Dozois. The mixing session was sponsored by Neve and Grey Goose Vodka. After snacking on some tarte forestiere (at left) and tarte d'Alsace that puts Trader Joe's to shame (don't laugh, theirs is actually quite good too), we sat down at tables that were fully appointed with all the tools of the bartenders' trade. We tried mixing three cocktails each with regular small-cube ice (Santer calls it, with just a tiny sneer, "deli ice"), and with Neve's large-cubed special cocktail ice in cube and rectangular formats.
Our table did have Golden State's Jason Bernstein , who has some bartending experience, but our side of the table quickly mangled the first cocktail, a Diablo with creme de cassis, tequila and ginger ale, by dumping all the cassis in at once.A proper mixing set-up was provided at each table

Still, we got the gist, which is that cocktails diluted by regular ice taste, well, diluted. A cocktail with one big pretty cube in it doesn't melt as fast, and the flavor of the alcohol and juices stays distinct and pure. In a regular cocktail, "The best sip is the first sip," said Santer, before the ice melts too much.
All that mixing was quite tiring, so we were happy when a buffet of juicy steak and super-crispy frites was served. Then it was back to mixing up martinis and daiquiris, which came out quite well, and a rather complicated explanation of mixing in stainless steel cocktail shakers with and without a glass. Our table concluded that stirred was indeed better than shaken in many cases. Neve ships its special Godzilla-sized old-fashioned ice cubes (at right) and tall, rectangular collins/hi-ball ice to bars and restaurants throughout the country.
If you're a home mixologist, you might want to try making jumbo ice and see what difference it makes in the quality of your cocktails.
Another thing made clear by the ice evening: I must stop dillydallying and get to Chuch & State very soon now for more steak frites and tarte d'Alsace.