Sycamore Kitchen: The neighborhood spot La Brea needed

In the 1990s, lunchers along La Brea were happy with spots like Rita Flora, Maison et Cafe and Sonora Cafe. After all, you can't always spend three hours at Campanile, and there's no place to eat items bought at the bakery.
So Sycamore Kitchen, the more casual spot from Hatfield's Karen and Quinn Hatfield, is a welcome update to the street. Right now the emphasis is on fresh and light sandwiches and salads at lunchtime, an ambitious array of homey baked goods and Portland's Stumptown Coffee, though full breakfasts are coming soon.



My lunching companion's turkey sandwich had a certain spare purity compared to the sauce-laden version over at Mendocino Farms: where everything there says FARM! FRESH! LOTSA MAYO! IN YOUR FACE, LOCAVORES!, the food at Sycamore Kitchen whispers "berry cream cookie...you know you want it...freshly roasted turkey with just the right amount of cherry mostarda spread...we're quiet but we're the real deal." Both approaches are fine, but Sycamore Kitchen clearly shows the sophistication that the Hatfields are known for. The turkey meat was thick and seemed recently-roasted, and it was served onb bread baked at the restaurant. (The bread's not available for purchase at the moment.) Some might call it too simple, like something you would prepare at home if you happened to have cherry mostarda, a turkey and a freshly-baked load of bread on hand, but I think that's kind of the point.


Mediterranean chicken salad was a well-balanced bowl of radicchio, kale, dates, hazelnuts, blue cheese and chicken, lightly dressed to let the assertive blue cheese and dates shine through. The afore-mentioned berries and cream cookie was a compelling idea for this berry-phile, but the "cream" part (white chocolate?) was way too sweet for me. My friend took a piece of the moist, restrained ale gingerbread home and I envied his afternoon teatime snack.The gooey pecan bun has drawn attention, but I fear it would be even sweeter than the cookie. Next time I'll try the sour cherry scone or fruit tartlets instead.
The ambiance is industrial and the patio's a tad stark, while those who want backs on their chairs should sit along the long brick wall to the side. Prices are what they are at all the stylish newer places -- $9-$12 for salads, sandwiches and open-faced toasts like cured salmon with capers, avocado and egg. Also on the menu are turkey chili, soup of the day, some veg sides and freshly made potato chips.
Sorry, Maison et Cafe, I've had some good times with you and your Eurotrash friends, but I'll be saying adieu to your tired, over-priced menu now that this sleek newcomer has moved in across the street.

Sycamore Kitchen
143 S. La Brea
323-935-2977

Tinga: Flavors that sing ... but do the prices zing?

Flat-iron steak tacos at Tinga

Tinga has been open on La Brea near 2nd for nearly a year, but many people still haven't noticed the tiny storefront with two tables outside near the larger Cafe Midi. Inspired by the approach of Santa Barbara's La Super Rica, husband and wife team Chris and Jerry Baker didn't replicate the menu, but brought handmade tortillas and the same careful approach to spicing found at the venerable stand. Instead of a scruffy patio, Tinga is tucked into a narrow space with a long communal wood table, blackboard menu wall and industrial feel.

chicken tacos with salsa verde, Tinga

I wanted to be able to say that Tinga's $8.50 taco plate was too expensive or that their compostable plates and utensils were too precious. But after recently eating at an old-school Mexican restaurant with even higher prices, rancid chips and watery salsa, I'd gladly give up on the chance to get a $10 jamaica margarita in exhange for real taste in my food. Actually Loteria's tacos are the same price, and Tinga's tacos are even bigger and meatier. In fact, I almost wish the Pechuga lemon-brined chicken breast tacos or the flat-iron steak tacos were chopped into smaller pieces instead of served in large slices. The taco toppings are dynamite, like addictive salsa verde on the chicken tacos or dog-snout salsa and pickled onions on the steak tacos. For easier eating, try the slow-cooked cochinita pibil pork tacos, which truly are spicy-spicy as the menu advises. The menu has expanded since the August 2010 opening, adding tortas and burritos to tacos and quesadillas. Don't look for elaborate dishes -- this is simple street food, but made with the highest attention to flavor and quality. In addition to the crispy, fresh chips that come with the tacos, don't miss the Elote especial -- a tangy-sweet-spicy combo of roasted corn, lime and poblano chile. There's plenty of other choices for vegetarians, like potato tacos and a mushroom quesadilla that intrigues even a devoted pibil-hound. Aguas like jamaica and watermelon lemonade are strong and not overly-sweetened, while dulce de leche-laden alfajore cookie is just the thing for dessert.
Sure, street tacos are great. But when even Baja Fresh charges $6 for two tacos, it's only logical to pay a dollar or two more for something you'll still be thinking about several days later.
Tinga Buena
142 S. La Brea
323-954-9566
(now open every day till 9 pm, Sundays to 7 pm)