|Outdoor seating is available on the sidewalk and also on the tiny annex patio at left|
When Hyperion Public announced its opening as a “sports bar,” some locals feared it might not fit the neighborhood’s character. Here's the Ledger review:
When Hyperion Public announced its opening using the words "sports bar," some locals were afraid it might not fit the neighborhood's character. The upstairs bar does have TVs showing sports events, but with bingo, karaoke and live music nights, the owners are working hard to make sure the bar has something for everyone in the community.
The revamped space is neither a gastropub, a sports bar or a hipster haven -- instead it's a lively and stylish restaurant/pub with solid food that pairs well with drinks.
A stylish makeover gave the downstairs restaurant of-the-moment Edison bulbs and industrial stools, and a large communal table down the middle that's perfect for large parties. Up a few stairs, the bar is more classic with a pressed tin ceiling and large booths.
The menu has been freshened up a bit since Hyperion Public opened eight months ago, and the whole operation is starting to come into focus as a lively neighborhood spot with windows open to the street and a few tables on the sidewalk.
If drinking is the main plan, there's plenty of beer-friendly items like F Yeah fries ($10) with bacon and creamy dip and half a dozen variations of chicken wings.
The menu skews towards comfort food like three kinds of mac 'n cheese and burgers and several bacon-laced items. But lighter eaters will appreciate BBQ steak lettuce cups -- basically tender steak tacos with lettuce instead of tortillas -- or champagne kale or grilled chicken salad.
Vegetarian choices include the quinoa bean burger, Silver Lake grilled cheese with stone fruit, mango and avocado salad and mushroom farro gratin, a homey, satisfying side that would work as a main course paired with a vegetable. The burger ($14) has been praised by Serious Eats' reputable A Hamburger Today blog, and although pre-boning the buttermilk fried chicken makes it verge on nugget territory, it's juicy and well-spiced with a side of bacon-inflected coleslaw ($17). Grilled salmon is a good value at $16.
The bar menu wisely concentrates on four signature cocktails: longtime Silver Lakers should try the vodka, basil and lime juice Walking Man. Both the wine and draft beer selections are fairly brief for a pub; for more variety, try a bottled amber ale from San Francisco's Speakeasy or Shipwreck double IPA from San Diego's Mission Brewing.
Among the desserts, salted caramel pie has many fans, but Key Lime pudding served in a canning jar is also light and refreshing.
Brunch is served starting at 11 on weekends, and also in the works is an adjacent bakery and coffee operation called Foreshadow. Don't miss the very well-priced Happy Hour menu from 4-7 p.m.
2538 Hyperion Ave.