Taste test: Golden Deli

I had to make a stop at Fosselman's in Alhambra Sunday for the ice cream tasting, so I picked up some dinner at Golden Deli down the road in San Gabriel. I wasn't very familiar with their menu, and since my knowledge of Vietnamese is somewhat limited, I randomly chose the spring rolls with shrimp and pork which they call "California rolls," beef fried with onion over steamed rice and rice noodles with coconut milk, shredded pork, shrimp paste and egg roll. This type of rice noodle was a little fatter than spaghetti and bright white with very little flavor of its own. The coconut milk and some chili sauce perked them up, and the egg rolls made a nice accompaniement. The beef with onion was nice and savory, but what's up with the Vietnamese rice that's all broken up into little bits? The spring roll was fresh and springy tasting. Next time, I'd like to try the charbroiled meatballs with vegetables and rice papers, and the crab and shrimp and bbq pork with egg noodle soup. What else is good there?

Verdict: While Vietnamese food doesn't have the range of flavors of Chinese or Thai food, it makes a tasty change of pace, and this place is super cheap too. It would be great in the winter with all their varieties of pho. The menu is nice because they also have bahn mi if anyone wants a sandwich instead.
Golden Deli
815 W. Las Tunas Dr.
San Gabriel, CA 91776
Archived comments:
Kirk said...
Pat - I think that "Com Tam" or broken rice is a carry-over of street food type dishes in Vietnam, where broken jasmine rice is alot more inexpensive than whole jasmine rice. So I'm guessing that these "broken rice" dishes have slowly integrated themselves into Viet cuisine. I've also noticed that most broken rice dishes have pork in them.
Jessica said...
Two words: Cha Gio = totally amazing. OK, that's four words. Whatever, they deserve a lot more than that. Many many other delights are to be had at Golden Deli. Even the red bean and gelatin drinks are awesome. Exception to the wonders of GD: shrimp paste. Always pay the extra buck and order charbroiled shrimp instead. Just don't go back in August when the restaurant is closed (makes me wonder if they actually might be Italian).
nancy said...
I am incredibly jealous. So far as I can tell, Portland has one hands-down, world-class Chinese restaurant (Hong Kong banquet-hall style), Wong's King, and a bunch of pretty-good pho spots. I am truly lusting after your meal.
skampy said...
while i don't like their pho (very bland), hanoi cafe in west los angeles (on sawtelle between santa monica blvd and olympic) has some great bun and some pretty tasty appetizers, as well. they're also near the giant robot stores, so you can make a fun little outing out of the whole experience. another vietnamese place in the same neighborhood is le saigon on santa monica blvd. i've only been there once so i don't have any specific recs, but everything we ordered was tasty.
Hailyn said...
what jessica said -- cha gio. that's what golden deli is famous for. crispy, hot, fried rolls filled with pork and shrimp, served wrapped with lettuce and a fistful of herbs -- cilantro, rau ram, basil. the best!
ep1cur3an said...
I am sad to see the comment that you feel that Vietnamese doesn't have the range of Chinese food or Thai food. I guess that people feel that way when they're not vietnamese or quite familar with it and ending up ordering "common" dishes.
Anonymous said...
I remember when "cha gio" were referred to as "imperial rolls." They are really good at Golden Deli when the shear heat can sear off the roof of your mouth. In that case try wrapping it in lettuce. There's this herb they put on the plate with the large order of "cha gio" I don't particularly care for. Pretty nasty tasting, but of course I don't care for cilantro much either. I love their "bun" with charbroiled pork and shredded pork. Nice on a hot summer day, when pho isn't an option. I like their chicken curry over noodles as well. A nice change of pace to the normal vietnamese fare.
miss mowie said...
I saw Jet Li there once. We took a detour because the road was blocked and we couldn't get to our favorite Viet restaurant. Golden Deli isn't our favorite, but nonetheless was okay. Jet Li's bad teeth made it worthwhile!