Shake Shack Gets Ready for a Spring Opening in West Hollywood

The signature Shackburger: cheese, tomato, lettuce and Shacksauce

Angelenos are highly faithful to their In 'n Out Burgers, but they're also accepting of burger innovation like Umami Burger. So hopefully we won't feel too competitive when New York's Shake Shack opens in West Hollywood in a couple of months, because they make a darn good burger. We had a preview last weekend, including a screening of the original "Star Wars," in the lot next door to the Santa Monica Blvd. at La Cienega location (the former site of the famous Koo Koo Roo), though the actual building won't be finished until about March.

Burger fans enjoy a winter outdoor screening of "Star Wars" on the site of the eventual patio and parking lot

A double cheeseburger, which will cost around $8, is twice as much as a similar In 'n Out Burger. But Shake Shack, which started as a hot dog cart to benefit Madison Square Park in Manhattan 15 years ago and has grown into more than 50 locations worldwide, is a step up in the burger heirarchy. The menu includes burgers, a chicken sandwich, hot dogs and also shakes and concretes -- made with frozen custard that's basically soft serve ice cream, but better. We tried the dense and lightly salty buttered popcorn flavor -- an ode to Hollywood, perhaps?

The Roadside Double with Swiss cheese, onions, Dijon mustard

The all-natural, 100% Angus beef burger is flat and flavorful - its meaty distinctiveness stands out even when folded into a potato roll with cheese and Shacksauce. If that's too basic, they'll also have a Smokeshack and a Shroom burger. The first California location will also get a special L.A. burger that pays homage to the French dips pioneered by Philippe's and Cole's.

The Roadside double adds Swiss cheese and Dijon mustard to bacon-simmered onions. Very beefy and substantial, it was perhaps a little too macho for my taste but Matt was a big fan. I preferred the classic, which seemed to subtly improve on a typical burger stand sandwich without crossing over into pricey gourmet burger territory. Shake Shack will also have locations Downtown, and later this year on Brand Blvd. across from the Americana, close enough to In 'n Out for an easy burger taste-off.

The Counter: Finally trying the new face of L.A. dining

Turkey burger with chipotle aioli, The Counter

I'm not sure how it's possible that the Counter started just before I started this blog, when I wasn't paying attention expanded to some two dozen locations including Ireland and Australia, and yet somehow I had never been to one. This strange food blogger oversight was remedied last week when I needed to be at the Directors Guild on Sunset and realized I could have an actual meal before the French film festival. The music is loud, the patrons are reading Kindles and drinking Arrogant Bastard on tap -- it's the new age of L.A. eating, fast, relatively inexpensive and pretty fun to eat. The choices were almost too much to handle, but eventually I ticked off Turkey burger - 1/3 lb., pepper jack cheese, whole wheat bun, chipotle aioli, sliced jalapenos, baby greens and alfafa sprouts. I called it the Mexican Hippie. I had been swilling free French wine at the festival, so I had to pass up the milkshakes and beer, but I thoroughly appreciate the idea of having several decent beers on tap at a hamburger joint, not to mention wine, shakes and malts. The burger itself didn't have a ton of flavor, but the toppings totally compensated. It's not quite burger nirvana, but the Counters are a fine thing to have strewn around the city, and it won't be five years until I go again -- I'm thinking beer float with coffee ice cream, sweet potato fries and...apricot sauce?

Surly Goat off to a sudsy start in West Hollywood

Ryan Sweeney opened the Verdugo two years ago and has branched out to West Hollywood with the Surly Goat.

West Hollywood now has its own high-end beer bar with The Surly Goat, from Ryan Sweeney, Adolfo Suraya, Brandon Bradford and Alen Aivazian. The Goat has been quietly open for about three weeks, and Sunday night the clubby, pubby Santa Monica Blvd. beer bar held a grand opening celebration. There were some intense brews flowing. I tried the complex, high-alcohol Firestone Walker 13 anniversary ale, with hints of fig, bourbon, chocolate and maple syrup; just-right Ballast Point Calico Amber Ale, a medium-bodied, drinkable Sierra Nevada Glissade Golden Bock and an overly light Speakeasy Public Enemy Pils. The spacious pub has a patio, a cozy semi-private room in back, and lots of seating in three other areas. There's no kitchen, so Sweeney plans to let patrons eat sandwiches from Shoop's or barbecue on the patio from Baby Blues next door. With a staff who are all carefully trained in beer styles, 27 craft beers on tap including Eagle Rock brewery beers, cask ales and 100 bottles, many of them rare beers, The Surly Goat is setting the bar high for beer bars and giving the Third Stop some stiff competition.
The Surly Goat
7929 Santa Monica Blvd.
West Hollywood
323-650-GOAT

Katsuya faces off with Michael Mina : East Meets West

Michael Mina and Katsuya Uechi got together for a special East Meets West menu at Mina's XIV last night, drawing a crowd for the 7-course tasting menu that featured a dish from both chefs at each course. A geisha (she gets a lot of work from Katsuya, it seems), and Louis XIV roamed the room to amp up the Japan vs. the West theme. Katsuya shone on the fish preparations, of course, including sliced tai snapper sashimi (above), big eye tuna nigiri sushi, and a fried scallop lollipop with truffle shavings (below). I also loved the braised egg and savory chicken meatball of the Jidori chicken course. But Mina also pulled off some winners. If I were to find myself at XIV again, I would order tapioca-crusted tai snapper with broccoli rabe and white soy vinaigrette, which is on the XIV menu. Mina's scallops were tender and full of flavor in a light, buttery sauce. Dessert was an assortment of petit fours, with Mina's burfi-like cashew ball (left) rising above the rest. Watch out for more special pairings and events at Katsuya and XIV.

(This was a hosted dinner.)

Domaine L.A.: Melrose gets great grapes

Guests mingle at Wednesday's grand opening, complete with wines from La Fenetre and foie gras grilled cheese sandwiches from Ludovic Lefevbre.

Domaine L.A.'s recently-opened Melrose shop is certainly convenient for picking up a good bottle to go with your California Chicken Cafe takeout, but it's also a great addition to the mid-city/West Hollywoodish area that's generally lacking in laid-back, friendly wine shops like Silver Lake Wine and Colorado Wine Co. Owner Jill Bernheimer, a former film producer who has been running online wine shop Domaine 547, says that for right now the store will be sales only, no tasting events, since city licensing is particularly onerous around restaurant-heavy Melrose. One fun feature at the store is the Wall of Affordable Deliciousness, with insouciant recommendations at reasonable prices, including "Not Yellowtail" and Domaine La Bastide syrah-grenache for $9.

Mexico Restaurante y Barra: Larry Nicola gives the people what they want

West Hollywood's new Mexico Restaurante y Barra is all about trying to show you a good time, from the goofy Mexican zebra at the front door to the serapes draped on the back of the chairs in case of a chilly evening. What's surprising is that the food is far better than it needs to be at a place that's tailor-made for hosting margarita-fueled groups of friends.
A few writers were invited to take a trip to Mexico, West Hollywood style on Sunday night. Owner Larry Nicola may be of Lebanese heritage, but he's got two things going for him: he loves Mexican food and visits there often, and after 30 years on the L.A. restaurant scene, he seems to know what L.A. wants.
Basically, L.A. diners want simple, non-gloppy Mexican food, excellent guacamole and plenty of types of margaritas and other cocktails, and who is he to deny them? Located in the building that once housed the Doors recording studio, Mexico is squeezed into the former Benvenuto space on Santa Monica near La Cienega.
The best seats in the riotously pink, mostly outdoor restaurant are on the upstairs patio -- try to forget you're overlooking Santa Monica Blvd. and pretend it's a beach resort, which shouldn't be a problem after the first drink. All the fruit juice-based cocktails are too sweet for my taste, but the Silverrano with tequila, cucumber, lime and serrano chile is just right for sipping with chips and chunky guac. We could have easily called it a night after appetizers of duck taquitos (above), roasted corn with crema and verdolaga (purslane) salad, halibut ceviche (above) and grilled shrimp cocktail with chipotle salsa.
But there were also hearty main dishes to explore -- grilled chicken with mole coloradito, red snapper and richly porky carnitas (above). Next time, I think one order of carnitas for the table and an assortment of appetizers and plenty of guacamole would be the perfect way to go.
With prices that are reasonable for the neighborhood and a well-conceived menu, Mexico is a big improvement over the area's other places like Spanish Kitchen and Marix.
Would I go back on my own dime? Definitely, if I were looking for a fun spot or needed to be in that area. But I might look for parking on La Cienega, as their lot is pricey at $7.
Mexico Restaurante
8512 Santa Monica Blvd.
West Hollywood
Phone 310.289.0088

Talesai take two: Venerable Strip spot changes it up

A new wine wall shows Talesai's more serious committment to the wine list

A quartet of independent producers discusses their next project; an elderly bleached blonde dines with her wheelchair-bound companion; a few agent types belly up to the bar, while next to us, two Beverly Hills couples return to check out one of their faithful spots.
It's a typical Sunset Strip crowd at Talesai, which chef Kris Yenbamroong says was considered cutting edge when his parents opened it 25 years ago -- when he was just one year old. Kris recently decided it was time to freshen up the menu, with stronger flavors and higher quality ingredients as well as a makeover for the room. We were invited by the chef to try some of the new dishes, so this isn't a real review -- but the manager told us they spotted S. Irene each time she came in, so I'm guessing she was treated well, too.
The new menu and look is all a bit much for the BH couples, who requested their old favorite mee krob off the menu and were not thrilled with the changes. Change is difficult for some folks, to be sure, but those who aren't clinging to 1980s Thai food should see a vast improvement in Talesai's dishes. We started with mushroom fries, similar to mushroom tempura -- I love mushrooms and I love anything well-fried, so these hit the spot.Larb made with filet mignon had just the right spice level to not scare away the regulars but still provide a little zing, with none of the gristle you sometimes get in cheaper restaurants. Zingy housemade pork Thai sausage was probably my favorite taste of the evening, although the sticky rice it's served with probably doesn't need to be made with sweet coconut milk. Fried chicken with housemade nam prik sauce had a delicious crust, but it might be a good idea to offer a spicy sauce and a mild one for different tastes. A duck "tamale" steamed in a banana leaf is basically haw mok but with duck instead of seafood -- the delicate custard is fragrant with kaffir lime, and the duck makes a nice change of pace. Subtle oxtail noodle soup (above) was nicely perfumed with anise. Most Thai restaurants don't have much of a choice of wine, but Talesai's new list has several good choices -- I had a glass of spicy Allimant Laugner gewürztraminer.
Fans of Ruen Pair and the like won't need to rush over here, but those looking for flavorful, well-prepared Thai food with interesting wine and cocktails and those who need a restaurant near the Strip will find it a welcome update.
BTW, chef Kris told us that some of his favorite local Thai spots include Ord Noodle and Palms Thai in Thai Town, Sri Siam in North Hollywood (ours too!) and Bua Siam in North Hollywood, although he wasn't sure if it's as good as it used to be.

Quick bite: Vito's Pizza

Oh Vito, why La Cienega? Why did you leave us? Los Feliz's loss is West Hollywood's gain as Vito's Pizza reopens shoehorned into a soul-less La Cienega mini-mall -- albeit with easy parking. I wasn't even that hungry when I had a minute to duck out of the office Friday, but I still hadn't gotten to Vito's since it re-opened. After getting a slice of the white pizza and a slice of Terra Firma (peppers, pepperoni, sausage, mushrooms, etc.), I sank my teeth into the crust of the white pizza and immediately understood what all the buzz was about. It's not exactly like a John's New York pizza, but the crust just tastes better than anything in L.A. A nice chew, not very well-done -- no Mozza-esque char -- just a pure bready taste with the proper amount of salt. The white pie with blobs of ricotta is a lovely thing, but I think I'd like to get a whole pizza fresh out of the oven to really experience Vito's. The pies come only in large size, though, starting at $16.50 for a cheese and rising precipitously to $32.50 for one with arugula, proscuitto, gorgonzola and pine nuts. Vito's also has baked ziti, eggplant parmesan, calzones, etc., but why would you devitate from the pizza?
Vito's Pizza
846 N. La Cienega Blvd.
(310) 652-6859

Guest post: Going head to head with S. Irene at Bar Marmont

"I would never send EatingLA to the Sunset Strip, knowing your aversion to heinous valet charges, restaurants with doormen and secret passwords and overpriced drinks," says Kathy, "but you may want to consider a visit to Bar Marmont."
She continues,"There's a new chef and menu; chef Carolynn Spence was hand-selected by the Chateau and Bar's owner Andre Balazs -- she worked at Mario Batali's famed gastro-pub Spotted Pig in the West Village. She's got a sure hand in the kitchen. We had the perfectly cooked, tender double cut pork chop with bourbon braised peaches and corn fritters (hush puppies to me). Best barfood I've had in L.A. in a long time. Dessert was a standout: warm, salty pistachio crumble topped with pistachio gelato. I'd go back to try the duck pastrami and the afogato, walnut nocello ice cream drowned in espresso. $8 Stella Artois and $6 single shot espresso are more euro-priced than usual. Main courses are $20/desserts $11 -- food prices are fair considering the ample portions and the fact that the food actually tastes like someone who knew what she was doing cooked it. I asked for a menu and the host wanted to know if I was S. Irene Virbila, I said 'yes, of course.'" -- Kathy McDonald

Loads of news (updated at bottom)

Larchmont Grill is now open in the former House space on Melrose...we'll try to review it soon. The menu includes steamed mussels with chorizo, Belgian fries, double-cut grilled pork chop with creamed corn gratin and a children's menu.

Jay Weston's restaurant newsletter reports that the deal for Tom Colicchio's Craft in Century City has fallen through...it's too bad Jay has so many typos in his newsletter since he's such an L.A. institution. UPDATE: SEE POST ABOVE. Craft says the deal is still on.

Speaking of showbiz connections, producer Sid Krofft has turned from the Banana Splits to fine dining with Eleven. The restaurant/nightclub opens in West Hollywood in October in the historic First National Bank of Sherman space at Larrabee and Santa Monica Blvd. The very ambitious project includes 32 interconnected plasma screens over the bar, a fountain with flames encapsulated in spheres of water, a co-ed mosiac restroom and "dynamic bursts of entertainment every 15 minutes." Chef Vincent Manna has cooked at Spago, L'Orangerie and Melisse and the menu sounds fusionish.

A Chowhound poster reports that Highland Park's The Wild Hare is for sale...it seems like a nice pub, one of the few places to get a good beer and some decent food. But perhaps the concentration of gentrified folks in Eagle Rock and Highland Park isn't quite high enough to support it...unfortunately it's a little bit off the beaten path for us.

This little piggy went to Norman's

piggy in his caja china
...and cried oink, oink, oink all the way home. Norman's on the Sunset Strip has decided to extend the Friday night Pig 'n Paella nights into the winter, even though it's too cold to eat outside on the patio. That's ok, because then you won't be able to get to know the nice little piggy too well before you dig in. Vegetarians, time to stop reading.
So anyway, we were invited to taste the pig 'n paella, and we took Billy and Amy along to try it out. We started with mojitos for the others and a Pisco sour for me, all very refreshing. The pig plate threatened to be a lot of food, so we just got two appetizers for the table -- the shrimp ceviche and the amazing conch chowder. The chowder was served with a pile of conch meat, corn and other chopped items in a bowl, and the server then poured a decadent mixture of slightly sweet cream and coconut milk into the bowl. It was wonderfully seasoned with star anise, but so rich that one bowl was plenty for four people.
Peter, the wonderful sommelier, whose descriptions of wine are like comforting bedtime stories, brought us a carafe of Pasanau, a Spanish red made predominantly from cabernet with some garnacha. The wine's smoky character stood up well to the succulent roast pork. The pork is roasted in a caja china, the traditional wooden roasting box, right outside the restaurant. I don't want to know what happens after that, but soon we were presented with plates brimming with roast pork, crispy pork skin, paella, coleslaw and fufu (mashed plantains and sweet potatoes).

roast pork with crisy skin in foreground, paella in background
The pork was incredibly moist and I'm afraid I devored every bit of the crunchy skin as well. The horseradish-flavored coleslaw also helped cut the richness of the pork, but the fufu was too starchy and filling for me to explore with so many other flavors. We were glad we opted for the paella pairing, since an entire plate of roast pork would have been a lot. We finished with a cheese plate and their small complimentary plate of cookies. Our server Andrew was extremely attentive and friendly, and we all gave the place pretty much our highest compliment: "We would return here on our own dime," especially since the pig 'n paella is only $19.