

cha gio -- fried egg rolls with vegetables
Vietnam House is a bit of an enigma -- it has the same owners as Golden Deli but with a larger menu, as well as beer and wine -- yet Golden Deli seems to be busier. And although it's at one of those amazing minimall Asian food epicenters, home to Newport Seafood and Luscious Dumplings, several other interesting Chinese restaurants and Golden Deli itself, it's sort of hidden in a corner of the minimall and not easy to spot. Not only does it have a shorter wait at peak hours, Vietnam House serves 7 Courses of Beef, for $12.95, as well as baked whole catfish and sizzling barbecue plates.
banh hoi nem nuong -- sausagy meatballish things with noodle pancakes
There's no mystery, though, about the massive quantities of well-prepared, homey Vietnamese dishes at bargain prices available at either one. It was entertaining watching all 12 courses of beef arrive at the table next to us, but we wanted to try a wider range of dishes. We started with the famous cha gio, egg rolls with vegetables, perfectly-fried fat rolls which gained a whole new dimension when rolled up with lettuce, cilantro and basil. We then had a little bit of everything -- wonderfully fragrant beef pho soup, banh hoi nem nuong, which is kind of a pork sausage on top of vermicelli pancakes topped with peanuts; a bahn mi sandwich, and broken rice topped with shredded pork, more egg rolls and shrimp paste (unless you're a huge shrimp paste fan, spring for the grilled shrimp instead). Although these places are brightly lit and bustling, the homestyle cooking tastes like what your grandmother would make you on a blustery night, if she was Vietnamese. And you'd be lucky to have a grandmother like that. There's beer if you want it, and a rainbow of drinks including pickle lemonade, cherimoya smoothie and kickass iced coffee. Just be careful when you go: Vietnam House is inexplicably closed on Tuesdays, while its sibling Golden Deli rests randomly on Wednesday.
Vietnam House, 710 W. Las Tunas Dr., San Gabriel, (626) 282-6327
Starck's ultra-modern, colorful design includes giant photo blow-ups backgrounding comfy square booths in the sushi bar room and larger table nooks in the lounge area area. As for the food, the crispy rice topped with tuna was a perfect rendition of this often-ruined staple, and the scallop sashimi was particularly luscious. The intensely flavored green tea brulee was one of the best riffs on creme brulee I've had, as long as you love matcha as much as I do. This place is a showstopper, likely to be overrun quickly by the Hollywood club crowd -- I just hope they appreciate the wonderfully fresh fish and housemade sake while they're lounging around on Starck's banquettes. Katsuya's empire is expanding awfully quickly, with new restaurants coming to Miami, Downtown L.A. and Glendale...but I don't know if Glendale is quite ready for this much style!
"I am sorry for the long wait for the first dishes, but I cut myself bad and it took about 20 minutes to stop the bleeding, so everything was behind," he writes.I know all sorts of things can happen in kitchens, so I'm sorry for his mishap. Probably just one visit from a waiter during that time to smooth things over would have helped, too. Anyway, I do appreciate the personal response, and the chef promises many more delicious things we didn't have a chance to taste if we visit again.