Monday, November 30, 2009

Matchbox Pizza Palm Springs: Suds in the desert

If you've been eating in Palm Springs for decades, since Hamburger Hamlet was the only edible place around, you've learned to be thankful for small things: A good beer list. An ample, tasty burger and fries. A decently-made pizza crust. A place that's guaranteed to have lively customers, instead of a sea of empty tables.
All these things can be found at Matchbox Pizza, an offshoot of a Washington D.C. pizzeria that has become many desert visitors' default dinner stop. Pretty much every place in Palm Springs, including the plush revamped Riviera Hotel, has happy hour every night of the week from 5-7, and Matchbox's is a good one. There are $6 pizzas, $5 cocktails and $2 off draft beers. While I was in the desert, I worked my way through the drafts, trying Acme IPA, Leffe Blond, Allagash Curieux and Chimay Triple. The $13 Bistro burger is pricier than Tyler's, but was enough for a hearty meal and went well with the Chimay. A big salad with apples, pears and pecans was fine, but skip the glazed scallops and stick with pizza, beer and burgers.
The setting is right in the middle of the tourist action, which is a little rough on the nights live top 40 bands play in the plaza below, but nice on a warm, breezy desert night with the flickering firelight of the central bar area. In the desert, it's best to keep it simple, and Matchbox does simple just fine.
Matchbox Vintage Pizza Bistro
155 S. Palm Canyon Drive
Palm Springs
760-778-6000

Matchbox Vintage Pizza Bistro on Urbanspoon

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Cheeky's redeems Palm Springs dining

The dearth of decent desert eating isn't just travel article cliche, it's mostly true -- at least until the arrival last year of Cheeky's, Palm Springs' answer to L.A.'s Square One Dining. Ironically, Cheeky's sprang up on the same block as Jake's Ready-to-eat, which when it opened two years ago was one of the few other places that truly seems to exist in this century rather than the last. Cheeky's is owned by Tara Lazar, a 32-year old former stock trader, and it rated a glowing profile in the Washington Post the day I was there. I was immediately excited by breakfast choices like a flight of four different kinds of bacon, a pumpernickel waffle with smoked salmon or housemade chorizo and eggs. My corn pancakes were huge and fluffy, studded with fresh corn kernels -- a little different from cornmeal pancakes I was expecting, but delicious and served with an adorable maple syrup house tin. I returned for lunch the next day to try some of the unusual sandwich ideas -- persimmon, prosciutto and brie was one -- and chose duck breast with caramelized plums, shallots and mozzarella. Like the pancakes, it might have sounded a tiny bit better on paper than in the execution, but it's hard to fault a place that's trying this hard in the middle of a food desert.
They've just planted herbs next to the patio, which sports pink bowls for doggie diners, and they're putting in a community garden. There's also plans for a pizza annex and wine bar, and why not? At brunch, you can have a mimosa or a bloody mary, while Fat Tire ale and Thomas Kemper rootbeer are on tap.
Cheeky's is only open for breakfast and lunch, and it's closed Tuesdays.
Cheeky's
622 N. Palm Canyon Dr.
Palm Springs
760-327-7595

Cheeky's on Urbanspoon

Vietnam Restaurant: Leafy greens meet surf 'n turf

Even with just a tiny chill in the air last week, I was thinking about soups of the Asian variety. Hot and sour soup was playing a tune in my head, but the haunting melody of a good pho was also teasing me until I could stand it no more and drove to Vietnam Restaurant. Vietnam is one of three restaurants on Las Tunas in San Gabriel owned by various members of the same family. Golden Deli was the first, always a classic, and often quite crowded. Vietnam House is less crowded and serves an ample seven courses of beef, but for some reason I got a blinding headache after I ate there so I'm not that into going back.
Vietnam Restaurant
is the third and my favorite of the three. It's not fancy, but various stringed instruments on the wall provide a stab at decor, and the staff is happy to explain how various dishes should be eaten.After we ordered, huge plates of greenery and vegetables started arriving, along with a pile of hard, translucent discs that look like plastic coasters or 45 records. When our surf 'n turf -- charbroiled beef and charbroiled shrimp arrived -- the server explained how to dip the discs of rice paper into the bowl of hot water, then wrap shrimp or beef, pickled vegetables and greens up in a nice package. The spring rolls came with a great variety of fresh herbs, including perilla, cilantro, ngo gai (sawtooth), laksa and basil.Cha gio in a combo with shredded pork and vermicelli, and plenty of greenery

I usually get beef pho, but we decided to try the pho ga dac biet (special chicken pho), with a well-flavored broth and pieces of everything but the cluck floating around. This is one place where even the chicken has plenty of flavor. Even after throwing bean sprouts and herbs in the pho, there was still a huge pile of greenery left on the table. We kept dipping the rice paper wrappers in water, adding herbs and chili sauce, and rolling them up with pickled carrots and daikon until every shred of beef and shrimp was gone. We'll definitely return to Vietnam Restaurant, and I swear, next time I will get the pickle lemonade.
Vietnam Restaurant
340 W. Las Tunas Dr.
San Gabriel
(626) 281-5577

Vietnam House on Urbanspoon

Sunday, November 22, 2009

Free cookies at Atwater's Village Bakery Sunday!

I'm in Palm Springs, but if I were in L.A. I'd definitely want to try a polenta/raspberry cookie from the Village Bakery & Cafe in Atwater, across from India Sweets & Spices.
They're free, but you must use the password "chupacabra" to get one. Hope I get to try one when I return!
Village Bakery & Cafe is at 3119 Los Feliz Blvd.

Saturday, November 21, 2009

Tangier Korean BBQ opens in Los Feliz; Town & Country closes; Cube opens Downtown

UrbanDaddy has all the info and a not-surprisingly dubious tone announcing the opening of Tangier Korean BBQ of Tokyo in Los Feliz. Wait, let's get this straight -- the formerly Moroccan-themed nightclub Tangier has kept its name, but turned into a Korean BBQ restaurant which is actually from Tokyo? Whatever, there's a robot and sake in the bar, and it's not like there's anywhere else to get Korean barbecue in Los Feliz.
***
What's going on at Town & Country Bakery on Sunset? It's "closed for remodeling" and has been sold, but no word yet of what's going in there. It can only be an improvement, since I never ran into too many fans of Town & Country.
A few doors down at 3819 Sunset, the Spice Station is "opening soon," selling salts, peppers and spices from around the world.
***
CubeLA is branching out from La Brea and will open its Downtown housewares and gourmet items factory Cube Marketplace one Saturday a week starting Feb. 13, 2010. Shoppers for imported linens, table accessories and garden ware will be treated to Prosecco and Cube pastries, and the space will also host cooking classes and gardening classes from Marta Teegan of Homegrown Los Angeles. The space is at 545 S. Central and will be open Feb. 13, March 13, April 17, May 15 and June 12 from 10 am-4 pm.

Friday, November 20, 2009

Tony C blogs at L.A.'s newest food blog

Tony Chen, the opinionated blogger behind the Sinosoul, "food blogging with a vengeance" blog is going a little milder with a new paid gig as L.A. food blogger at AOL's new Tripvine site. Despite all the cutbacks this week at AOL, they're simultaneously pursuing the content biz with a new web of city-centric sites. EatingLA's good friend and frequent eating partner Kathy McDonald writes the L.A. hotels blog, while Joshua Glazer handles nightlife. Who says foodblogging doesn't pay?

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Frysmith preview tonight in Eagle Rock/Los Feliz

We stopped by the Frysmith truck last night for a taste of the long-awaited fries from Erik Cho and his wife Brooke Howell. Erik learned the frying trade first at his mother's knee, working in her hamburger joints, and then at tony bistros like Berkeley's Cafe Rouge, where he perfected his technique. Inspired by his love of good fries, he's launching the Frysmith truck this week with the grand opening (free cookies!) Friday night in Venice.For now, Erik's menu is pretty tightly controlled. All fries are served in main dish portions, topped with proteins like pork belly with kimchi, rajas with steak, sweet potato fries with barbecued chicken or vegan chili. He doesn't serve fries a la carte, and like Father's Office, he doesn't serve ketchup -- at least not until he perfects his own recipe.
He's definitely got the frying technique down, and the fries (cooked in canola oil) were perfectly cooked, with just enough crispy brown bits at the bottom of the tray. The Kimchi with pork belly topping would make a hefty late-night snack with a good beer. Pairings of sodas like honey-blood orange or Cheerwine are suggested with each variety.The truck has one final tryout run tonight in Eagle Rock and then at the Bigfoot before tomorrow's grand opening; follow them on Twitter to find out where to find Frysmith.

Top Chef #11: Culinary Olympics: Keller in da house

Jennifer's poached salmon, shrimp flan with truffles and celery root with shitake mushrooms. Padma agrees it was the most intriguing visually.

There are very few smiles left in the kitchen stadium -- oh wait, that's a different show. Anyway, as the show gets underway, the mood is tense and just a little nasty, as Michael Voltaggio looks ready to throw Jennifer under the bus, sniffing, "There's not a whole lot left for her to do." Later, he snipes, "The food Kevin makes is what I make on my day off."
Still looking miserable, Jennifer explains that maybe she had become unfocused.
Judge for the Quickfire challenge is Gavin Kaysen, who competed in the Bocuse d'Or competition, which is also the them of the show.
It's turducken time on the Quickfire, where the chefs are asked to stuff a protein in a protein in a protein.
Eli has a clever idea to make a Scotch egg; Bryan incorporates caul fat wrapped around his lamb tenderloin and Kevin once again reverts to his Southern roots with too-dry fried catfish. Michael kinds cops out with a terrine instead, and gets smacked by Kaysen for not following directions.
The winner: "Welcome back," Padma smirks to Jennifer, who'd thought she lost her mojo. Her calamari stuffed with salmon and scallops looks simple, but it was cooked properly and impressed the judges. Either that, or they need to keep Jennifer on to add a little female-male tension right up to the end. Her prize is an extra half hour worktime on the elimination challenge.
Elimination round: The chefs will recreate a Bocuse d'Or competition with a protein (either lamb or salmon) and two garnishes served on a giant oval mirror. Thomas Keller is one of the judges, a perfect tie-in with the opening of Bouchon Bistro Beverly Hills today.
When Kevin asks for sous-vide cooking advice, Brian is in awe of his nerve, and implies that Michael might not have been as helpful. Is it the truth, or just an effort to sabotage his brother?
Wha' happened? Pretty much all the Bocuse d'Or dishes are failures on some level.
As usual, Michael's food looks fancy but lacks taste --judge Traci DesJardins agrees that the flavors don't go together.
Random observation: Jennifer helps out the others because she has extra time, but I feel like the men wouldn't do that. Butch up, Jennifer!
While the dehydrated garlic chips on Bryan's dish impressed Keller, his lamb and Eli's too were both undercooked and tough. Yuck.
I'd eat that: Eli's side dish of ras el hanout and carrot puree sounds like a winner.
The winner: Kevin! He says $30,000 is almost what he makes in a year, but will his cooking be complex enough to compete in the Bocuse d'Or? His dish was almost too simple, but it was the only one that was actually cooked correctly.
The loser: I knew it had to be Eli, who left globby pieces of fat in his lamb sausage. They need to keep the brothers to keep the competition going, and Jennifer provides a marginally female contrast to the brothers, so it had to be Eli. I'm kind of sorry to see the little troll go, he's actually tearfully snorfaling.
Did you think Eli was the obvious choice?

Next week: The chefs leave Las Vegas to cook on the Napa wine train.
Foodie vocab lesson:
Crepinette: a flat sausage wrapped in caul fat
Ras el hanout: A Moroccan spice mixture made of cinnamon, ground chilis, cumin, etc.

Nancy Silverton's burger stand at Farmer's Market: more from Merrill

If you're going to have someone sneak up on you from behind while cutting up baguettes at Bouchon, hopefully it will be Merrill Shindler, charming critic and man about town who writes Shindler's Dish for Zagat.
Shindler got some time with Amy Pressman, who is partnering with Nancy Silverton for the Market Burger stand coming to the old Du-Par's bakery at Farmer's Market next summer, talking about what to expect at the stand. It's definitely getting to be time for some new blood at the market -- make that beefy, grass-fed blood.

Speaking of Farmer's Market, here's some great vintage postcards posted by Ellen Bloom at the L.A. is my Beat blog.

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

And the winner is...Erica!

Thanks so much to the dozens of EatingLA readers who entered to win Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc cookbook. Who says nobody cooks anymore? The demand for this was huge! Congrats to Erica, who was the first to submit the correct answers:

1) The French Laundry was originally: Before it was a restaurant, and even before it was a laundry, it was a saloon.

2) The original owners of the French Laundry restaurant, Sally and Don Schmitt, relocated to the Philo Apple Farm in the tiny hamlet of Philo in Mendocino County. Philo is near Boonville, where residents improvised a quasi-language in the early 1900s called Boontling.

Monday, November 16, 2009

Bouchon Bistro Beverly Hills: Scenes from a delicious opening evening

The produce storage closet is ready for Wednesday's opening.

Did Beverly Hills need a lavish new brasserie complete with bar a huitres, a bread room and an entire pastry kitchen? Sure, why not? Overlooking the French-style gardens of the still-new Montage Hotel, Bouchon actually looks like it belongs on Canon Drive across from Spago and Mastros despite being shiny and new. Tonight's opening party (a follow-up to last week's chefs party) drew bloggers, writers, a motley assortment of celebs including Star Jones, Jay Leno, Larry King and Pierce Brosnan and lots of laquered and lifted BevHills ladies and gents. Guests got full run of the spacious, gleaming kitchen and pastry and bread areas as well as the large bar, dining room and balcony. Here's a few of the areas we checked out.

Mini BLTs with pork belly and pesto were extremely satisfying.

Sebastian Rouxel, originally from Nantes, is executive pastry chef for all of Thomas Keller's restaurants. He's been in Beverly Hills for a week prepping the opening of Bouchon. He says Americans are mad for macarons.

Prepping the cheese service. Red Hawk was rather pungent, but Fourme d'Ambert was luscious.

Hot hors d'oeuvres including mini croque monsieurs, BLTs, squash soup cups, lamb toasts and short ribs were served in the main kitchen.

The gift bag included a mix and silicone baking pans for the signature chocolate bouchons.

The full menu is now available on Bouchon's website. I'm glad I've got a reservation for my birthday next month!
Tomorrow, I'll announce the winner of Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc cookbook.

Win Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc at Home!

In honor of the Bouchon opening party tonight, where supposedly I will be hobnobbing with the likes of Gary Oldman and Ryan Seacrest, EatingLA is giving away a copy of Thomas Keller's new Ad Hoc at Home cookbook. These family-style recipes look wonderful, especially the scallion potato cakes, just in time for Hanukah.
To win a copy of the book, email me at pattyberlin@yahoo. com with the answers to these questions:
What type of business was originally in the building where Keller's French Laundry is located?
and, for the tricky one: The original owners of the French Laundry restaurant relocated to another Northern California town in an area which sports its own dialect? What is this invented lingo called?
In the meantime, here's the recipe for scallion potato cakes to tide you over.

Scallion potato cakes

5 scallions
3 pounds large russet potatoes
1/2 cup cornstarch
Canola oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

While potato pancakes can be made by grating potatoes straight into the pan, we grate and rinse them, squeeze them dry, and toss them with cornstarch. The cornstarch prevents the potatoes from discoloring and helps to bind the cakes (they don’t contain any eggs) and make them crisp. These can be served with duck or with corned beef, and topped with a poached egg. You could make smaller individual cakes to serve as an appetizer with smoked salmon and Horseradish Cream (page 57) or Slow-Cooker Apple Butter (page 249) and sour cream. These are best eaten immediately, but you can keep the first and second batches warm in the oven while you cook the final one.

Preheat the oven to 200°F. Set a cooling rack on a baking sheet. Cut away the ends of the scallions on a severe diagonal and discard,then cut the dark greens into very thin slices. (Reserve the remaining scallions for another use.) Set aside. S
et up a food processor with the coarse shredding blade. Peel the potatoes and shred them. Immediately transfer them to a large bowl of cold water and swirl and rinse the potatoes. Lift them from the water and dry in a salad spinner. Transfer to another large bowl. Spoon the cornstarch around the sides of the bowl and toss the potatoes with it (adding the cornstarch this way will help to coat the potatoes evenly). Do not let the potatoes sit for too long, or they will release their starch and the centers of the potatoes can become sticky.
Heat some canola oil in a 10-inch nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat until the oil is shimmering. Turn down the heat to medium. Add one-sixth of the potatoes, gently spreading them into an 8- to 9-inch circle. Keep the potato cake light and airy; do not press down on the potatoes. Season with a generous pinch each of salt and pepper. Reserve a cup of the scallion greens for garnish, and sprinkle one- third of the remaining scallion greens over the potatoes.
Carefully spread another one-sixth of the potatoes on top; again, do not press down on them. Season with salt and pepper. Cook for 6 to 7 minutes, to brown the bottom. You should hear the potatoes sizzling in the oil; if the potatoes get quiet and are not sizzling, or the pan looks dry, add a bit more oil. Turn the pancake over to brown the second side. The pancakes are somewhat fragile and can be difficult to flip with a spatula; if you don’t feel comfortable turning them, invert the pancake onto the back of a baking sheet, held tilted over a second baking sheet, as some oil may seep out, then return the pan to the heat and slide the potato cake into the pan browned side up. Cook until the second side is browned and crisp, then transfer to the rack and keep warm in the oven while you cook the remaining 2 pancakes.
Cut each pancake into 4 wedges, stack on a platter, and garnish with the reserved scallion greens.
SERVES 6

Saturday, November 14, 2009

Wat Dong Moon Lek: a breath of fresh Thai air for Silver Lake

Rambutan salad is an imaginative addition to the Thai canon.

I used to drive down Fountain often, hoping that some day one of the forlorn Thai, vegan or Chinese restaurants between Sunset and Vermont would turn into something interesting. My prayers have been answered with the arrival in August of Wat Dong Moon Lek, a compact spot in the Fountain Ave. mini-mall anchored by the dubiously-named Point Dume Chinese restaurant. With turquoise walls hung with teak panels and a smiling, attentive staff and a blackboard full of specials, Wat Dong Moon Lek has a more modern and thoughful take on Thai food than the old school Thai Town spots, and it's a welcome update.Panang curry is classic and flavorful.

Everything we tasted was full of bright and strong flavors, with just the right amount of heat to satisfy my heat-seeking self but not make Matt regret going out to dinner with me. Refreshing rambutan salad was a completely new idea to me, combining the lichee-like fruit with shrimp in a sesame-flecked coconut dressing that was good enough to lap it up like soup. I was intrigued by ham hock rice with pickled mustard greens, which is more Chinese-influenced. Our only mistake was getting the half order -- just get the larger size, because otherwise you'll run out of the tender pork before you're done figuring out how to optimally combine just the right combo of sweet soy broth, hot sauces, rice and mustard greens with the pork. Don't be fooled by the plain-looking ham hock -- it's a mesmerizing combo with the various sauces.

Hainan chicken also comes recommended, but there were only two of us, so we also missed the signature Wong Dong Moon Lek beef or pork noodles. Instead we had tom yum udon with chicken -- a classic, well executed and fairly spicy tom yum broth with the new addition of udon noodles. Panang curry with pork was also a classic Thai dish, flawlessly executed with a homemade taste to the well-spiced curry sauce. After devouring just about every bite of the four dishes, the only problem was not having enough room to taste the wonderful looking plates of caramelized bananas and berry tarts coming out of the kitchen from the owner's Cordon Bleu-trained pastry chef wife.
To drink, there are fresh fruit smoothies, or BYOB. Prices are quite reasonable for the quality of the food, though portions are restrained. Our ample dinner for two was $30.
Tip: Try to get a table with real chairs instead of the backless stools; and save room for dessert.
Wat Dong Moon Lek
4356 Fountain Ave.
323-666-5993

Wat Dong Moon Lek on Urbanspoon

Silver Lake gets Canadian spotlight

Hollywood-based writer Alissa Walker shines the light on Sunset Junction for the benefit of chilled Canadians who could use a steaming cup of Intelligentsia coffee in the Toronto Globe and Mail story L.A.'s Silver city. Whether Alegria really has the best Mexican food in the city is fightin' words, but it's nice to see articles like this done by local residents instead of often-clueless out-of-towners.

Friday, November 13, 2009

Sona celebrates seven years

Sona's lobster risotto with kaffir lime leaf and shellfish emulsion should be experienced at least once.

Sometimes it's hard to keep track of Sona's chef/owner David Myers. He opened and closed a few Boule Bakeries, opened Comme Ca and Pizza Ortica, which are going strong, and he's contemplated opening more places everywhere from Downtown to Orange County. Despite a recent change in the management company of the restaurant, Myers is very much still in charge at Sona, and is doesn't seem possible that the fetchingly boyish chef has already been there seven years.
I'm so glad I finally got to eat at La Cienega Blvd. restaurant, one of L.A.'s most grownup spots with a quietly elegant room you can actually converse in and very attentive service. A meal at Sona is full of thoughtful touches, from the yardlong cheesy breadsticks to the cutest Barbie-sized salt and pepper macaron ever on the plate of mignardises at the end of the meal. Myers' cooking isn't quite as surprising as as when Sona opened seven years ago, but it's still one of the more imaginative menus in town, as long as you're not afraid of foam, espuma and the like.

Standout courses were impossibly rich, yet delicate lobster risotto with refreshing kaffir lime leaf and roast duck with smoky eggplant puree. The anniversary menu is available Tuesdays through Thursdays this month for $77. Reservations can be made at (310) 659-7708.

Here's the anniversary menu:
Hamachi with edamame puree, spicy grapefruit, preserved turmeric
Tahitian squash soup with chai foam, anago, pearl tapioca
Maine lobster risotto with shellfish emulsion, kaffir lime leaf
Roasted duck with wasabi, eggplant puree, celery root-shiso salad
Red wine braised short rib with cardamom boniato puree, mitsuba
Baba with quince, pear, grains of paradise sabayon
Chocolate beignets (right), pumpkin confit, birch bark ice cream

(This was a hosted dinner.)

Gold Line opening Sunday adds a pub crawl

Free rides on the MTA Gold Line extension, lots of food for sale at each new stop -- there's plenty of celebrating going on over the new Gold Line extension to Little Tokyo and Boyle Heights. Read about the festivities as well as a pub crawl from 2-7 pm, starting at La Golondrina, at the LA Eastside blog.
And here's more from the L.A. Times on all the places to eat along the way.

The Park gets beer and wine!

Congrats to Echo Park's the Park for hanging in there long enough to get a beer and wine license. The restaurant was operating under the difficult condition of not being able to let patrons bring in wine, a nearly catastrophic condition which they solved by hosting reservation-only supperclubs and speakeasys. They'll still be offering the Tuesday and Friday prix fixe menus as well as Wednesday burger night. I've always like the Park's approach to well-prepared food at prices just right for the neighborhood, and the wine and beer make it that much better.
Here's the beer list for now:
Spaten $4
Cucapa Honey Ale $4
Affligem Blonde $5
St Peters Organic English Ale $7
Hitachino Nest White Ale $8
North Coast Old 38 Stout $6

Wines start at $6 a glass with most bottles in the $25 range.

Tonight's menu features grilled sweetbreads with smoked salt, marinated persimmon salsa and pupusa at $20 for three courses.
Tuesday Nov. 17 is Japanese-inspired, with 3 courses for $15, including:
miso soup or creamy cabbage and pear salad, chicken or tofu oka-san with gingered spinach and warm sushi rice and creampuffs.

The Park is at 1400 Sunset, near Dodger Stadium.

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Top Chef #11: Strip Around the World - Save our Souls!

Egg Reuben benedict with Thousand Island hollandaise sauce is Eli's imaginative breakfast dish.

It's down to a more manageable six chefs and the personalities have been getting more distinct, yet somehow Robin is still in the kitchen.
For the Quickfire Challenge, the chefs have to deliver breakfast in bed to saucy British chef/author Nigella Lawson. When they reveal that Gordon Ramsay named a turkey after her, my daughter falls off the couch laughing. She's legit!
Who doesn't like breakfast? Even the worst of these dishes look pretty good.
I'd eat that: Love Robin's blintzes! But Padma and Nigella, luxuriating in separate beds, pronounce them too one-note. Michael Voltaggio gets over-elaborate with a Cuban-inspired dish involving crispy rice, egg, bacon bits and banana. Still, it looks pretty tasty.
They still hate Robin: "I'd rather you'd just be gone right now!" Michael says to Robin while manuevering around the kitchen.
Only Jennifer's dish -- Shit on a shingle - looks kinda nasty. Why, Jennifer, why? Even calling it chipped beef isn't gonna help.
The winner: Eli has the clever idea to combine a Reuben sandwich with eggs Benedict, getting his recipe in the Top Chef Quickfire cookbook.

Elimination round: Each chef has to base a tasting for 250 people around a Vegas hotel. That sounds like an annoying task, and indeed, almost everything goes wrong in this round.
Robin gets The Mirage, where the Dale Chihuly glass ceiling inspires her to make panna cotta with sugar stained glass, a new dish for her. Robin stupidly proclaims, "I keep doing things I haven't done before!" The panna cotta is as solid as Nigella's rack, instead of soft like a courtesan's thigh, as the lusty Nigella put it.
Jennifer is completely discombobulated by the smoke and Medieval kitchery of The Excalibur. She has no clue what to do, and the judges are left riffing on whether her steak represents the sword or the stone, because it's so tough. "It's more Spamalot than Camelot," says Nigella. Who writes this stuff? Again, Jennifer appears sulky and ready to melt from exhaustion.
He should have lost: Eli is like an elf in a candy store at bright, noisy Circus Circus -- where he inexplicably decides on caramel apple peanut soup with popcorn and raspberry froth. "Like most people who go to Vegas, he has gambled and lost," says Padma. "It wasn't a dish, it was a fiasco," says Nigella.
The real loser: Finally, it's goodbye to cancer-riddled, wizened, incompetent, babbling Robin, despite the fact that they seemed to hate Eli's gritty peanut soup even more than her rubbery panna cotta. In her tearful parting words, Robin says she feels like she lost her way not cooking her signature comfort food.
The winner: Michael Voltaggio draws New York, New York and decides on boneless chicken wings with blue cheese -- but isn't that more upstate New York? The judges laud him for not making his food so effeminate as it usually is. Just before the judging, he looks shell-shocked -- he didn't even manage a fight with his brother this time. But he wins a bottle of wine -- just a magnum, although it should have been a more generous Nebuchadnezzar, and a weekend in Napa.
Nothing too surprising this week -- the bad cooks go home, and the good cooks stay, although they could smile once in a while.
Next week: Thomas Keller appears, right in time for the opening of Bouchon Beverly Hills. Who says this isn't an L.A. show?
Vocab lesson: Escabeche: poached fish marinated in an acidic mixture, usually served cold and similar to ceviche
S.O.S.: Shit on a shingle or creamed chipped beef, originated in the Army around WWII

Monday, November 09, 2009

Lunasia takes dim sum in new directions

Foie gras dumplings appear on the menu as fro gura dumplings; they're earthy, nicely packaged and worth the upcharge.

If you're like me, you probably started eating dim sum at a vast banquet hall like Ocean Seafood Downtown or Harbor Village in Monterey Park, where stern ladies pushed carts around the room, laden with greasy, delicious, but often lukewarm puffy pork buns and the slippery goodness of har gow dumplings. Maybe you moved on to start ordering from the menu of sophisticated dim sum at Sea Harbour, which made a trip to Rosemead well worth the effort.
Lunasia in Alhambra, a descendent of Triumphal Palace formerly in the same spot, adds several more items to the canon of nouveau style dim sum, for a mostly pleasing result.

Salt and pepper squid with garlic is better than most other versions of fried calamari, though the briny ocean flavor is more pronounced than most.
Crispy duck pie in a flaky puff pastry is a more sophisticated take on the bbq pork bun, but with a similar interplay of sweet, meaty and doughy.
Shark's fin dumpling is a ginormous specimen floating in a light broth, sort of a won ton on growth hormone. This one didn't wow me, with almost too-subtle flavors, but it's hard to share a dumpling the size of a kid's head with your fellow diners.

Marshall from Fooddigger came along with two red wines, I think a Barolo and a Nebbiolo, as he wanted to see how Italian reds would pair with dim sum dishes. They might have overwhelmed the more delicate seafood dumplings, but were perfect with pork belly and sliced char siu pork. We also liked the traditional har gow and shu mai, shrimp noodle and a thin, crispy bacon scallion pie (right) that should really be a bar snack served everywhere.
Lunasia has a nicer atmosphere and prices are slightly higher than the sling-the-buns on your plate kind of place, but it's worth it to have a less frenetic experience. Plus, they accept reservations for groups.

Lunasia
500 W. Main St.
Alhambra
626-308-3222

Lunasia Chinese Cuisine on Urbanspoon

Sunday, November 08, 2009

Dresden, Bigfoot name-checked in "Where the Dirty Hipsters Are" spoof


SecretsauceTV brings us "Where the Dirty Hipsters Are," a mildly amusing spoof of "Where the Wild Things Are." Can someone who lives farther than two miles from Sunset Junction please let me know whether anyone else will find this funny?

Friday, November 06, 2009

Thomas Keller signings, the Six comes to West L.A. and pickle pops

I always thought Jack Sprat's was a lame idea for a restaurant -- if you want to eat healthy, have a salad or something, but don't make it sound like deprivation before you even walk in the door. So William Karges and Jake King are doing a makeover into a gourmet pizza-craft beer kinda place called "The Six." It's a rather obscure reference to the Society of Six plein air painters. Whatever, Belgian beer on tap, sounds fine to me. Also, there's homemade mozzarella, a 14-seat communal table, and wines under $25 a bottle. The Six is slated to open Thanksgiving eve at 10668 Pico in West L.A.
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Get a taste of Thomas Keller's new Ad Hoc cookbook at signings Monday, Nov. 9 from 12:00 – 2:00pm at Williams Sonoma in Santa Monica ( 1600 Montana Avenue ) and Tuesday, Nov. 17 from 7:00 – 9:00 pm at Borders in Torrance ( 3700 Torrance Blvd ). And stay tuned for a special giveaway in the next few days (don't get your hopes up, it's not dinner for two at Bouchon.) Also, Keller will be at the South Coast Plaza Williams Sonoma Thursday Nov. 12, complete with tastes from the book.
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From the press releases we never finished reading department...
"Bob's Pickle Juice Pops frozen pickle juice treats combine popular taste and health benefits...plus the USDA has approved them for distribution in schools." Right, pickle pops, they're a vegetable, not a popsicle. Fortunately, the folks at Bob's seem to be good sports and don't mind a little ribbing, as they've already responded to this post and a Tweet!

Wednesday, November 04, 2009

Tobey Maguire goes to Bouchon; the rest of us will have to wait

Last night while I was tasting the East Meets West menu at XIV, Tobey Maguire was hosting pre-opening dinner at Thomas Keller's Bouchon. Of course, the restaurant doesn't open until Nov. 18, but the evening was a benefit for LACMA's film and architecture programs. According to the release, Gwen Stefani, Wolfgang Puck and Paramount's John Lesher were among those showing up in support of the museum. Guess they're getting serious about maintaining that film program. The third Bouchon (after Las Vegas and Napa Valley), at 235 N. Canon Dr. in BevHills is now taking reservations, but only for a month ahead. The wine bar portion, Bar Bouchon, will open in mid-December.
...Strangely enough, Blackbook seems to have already been to Bar Bouchon, even though it won't open for a month.

Homebrewing foams up on the Eastside

I've been waiting for something like this, and now I've found it, thanks to Jennie Cook's Make It and Take it Pie-Making Party announcement. I hope I'll be able to get to the Homebrew Day and finally start that beer I've been threatening to brew.

Katsuya faces off with Michael Mina : East Meets West

Michael Mina and Katsuya Uechi got together for a special East Meets West menu at Mina's XIV last night, drawing a crowd for the 7-course tasting menu that featured a dish from both chefs at each course. A geisha (she gets a lot of work from Katsuya, it seems), and Louis XIV roamed the room to amp up the Japan vs. the West theme. Katsuya shone on the fish preparations, of course, including sliced tai snapper sashimi (above), big eye tuna nigiri sushi, and a fried scallop lollipop with truffle shavings (below). I also loved the braised egg and savory chicken meatball of the Jidori chicken course. But Mina also pulled off some winners. If I were to find myself at XIV again, I would order tapioca-crusted tai snapper with broccoli rabe and white soy vinaigrette, which is on the XIV menu. Mina's scallops were tender and full of flavor in a light, buttery sauce. Dessert was an assortment of petit fours, with Mina's burfi-like cashew ball (left) rising above the rest. Watch out for more special pairings and events at Katsuya and XIV.

(This was a hosted dinner.)

Monday, November 02, 2009

Cacao Mexicatessen: A picante addition to Eagle Rock

Green apples wrapped in tamarindo are a spicy and delicious Mexican-inflected take on a fall treat.

After writing about my trip to Tijuana, I was seriously in need of some out-of-the ordinary Mexican food. Pig uterus carnitas at Highland Park's Metro Balderas might have been a possibility on a weekend, but as it was only Friday, we went a little more upscale at Cacao Mexicatessen in Eagle Rock. Only three months old, Cacao combines fresh, homemade food with distinctive flavors not often found in casual spots.
Succulent duck carnitas are hidden under the radishes in homemade tortillas.

Wrapped in tortillas made as soon as you order, tacos go beyond the usual carne asada, carnitas and cochinita pibil to squash blossoms with poblano strips, duck carnitas, shrimp in chipotle citrus sauce or bacon with Cacao salsa. Crispy, rich carnitas de pato -- duck confit -- would be an amazing way for for a non pork-eater to experience the lusciousness of carnitas. Shrimp enchipotlados, made with meaty, good quality shrimp, could have used some garnish but had a great spicy tang. Fresh chips are some of the best I've had, with an addictively zippy salsa. Why is it called a Mexicatessen? In addition to tables indoors and on the front porch, the housemade tortillas, guacamole, salsas and chips are all available in bulk to take home, as well as menudo on weekends and aguas frescas by the gallon. Larger entrees like mole, rellenos and tortas fill out the menu along with a good selection of artisanal Mexican chocolate and unusual coffee drinks like mocha with chile or coffee with cajeta. On weekends, there's brunch. Somewhere between the taco trucks and Downtown's new haute Mexican spots, there's a sweet spot like Cacao, where the lively cooking comes as an excellent surprise.
Update: Now I've also tried tacos of cochinita pibil and squash blossom, and the squash blossom ones in particular are really wonderful (get them with cheese, unless you're vegan, of course.)
Cacao Mexicatessen
1576 Colorado Blvd. (right next to Trader Joe's)
323-478-2791
(Closed Monday, no alcohol)

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