Wednesday, February 28, 2007

Three 6 Mafia loves cheese as much as we do!


Barrie Lynn, the Cheese Impresario, brought her cheese hostessing talents to the Haven Oscar celebrity retreat last weekend. Eating L.A. was too busy dealing with the flood to stop by, but Barrie Lynn sent us this photo of her buddies DJ Paul and Juicy J who stopped by for some fine Wisconsin cheese. "These guys are total foodies!" says Barrie Lynn.

Wednesday's rants and recs

Not much good eating lately...I've been dealing with a horrible leak and flooded living room, so it's been takeout pho from Indochine; office-catered food from Chichen Itza; pizza and Delerium Tremens beer at the 3rd Stop...basically catch and catch can.

This is what I've been thinking about while not eating...
I have no idea who Austin Bush is, but he's a great photographer and I love his Thai food blog Real Thai. I'm putting him on my blogroll and he might just inspire me to learn Photoshop. There's a rice dish on his blog called khao khluk kapi that looks so appealing...do any Thai restaurants in L.A. serve it?

Sometimes the folks at Center for Science in the Public Interest just seem like a bunch of kill-joys, but their recent revealing of the hideous calorie counts in chain restaurant food is pretty shocking. Chow's Grinder blog agrees. I'm the last person to be the food police, but people should probably be ashamed to eat at these places where one pasta dish tops 2000 calories.

And Prince Charles may indeed by hypocritical, but I think I'm with him on this one too: Let's just ban McDonald's and get it over with. As long as he doesn't try to ban salt and vinegar crisps or dark chocolate digestive biscuits, then I don't see the problem.

Friday, February 23, 2007

And now, a moment of kvetching about the L.A. Times

I try not to jump on the Times-bashing bandwagon too often -- I've got perfectly intelligent friends who work there, and besides, it's all we've got. But really, what could be more tired than the My Favorite Weekend feature? (Well, maybe the lowest-common denominator fast food review or the always-icky Getting Personal column, but I digress.) My Favorite Weekend is where, each week, we read about the tedious pursuits of some mid-level TV actor. They fall into three categories:
1) "I've got kids, we never leave the valley, we order in pizza, there's a deli in Tarzana or Northridge or somewhere where we hang out after bowling league." Definitely the worst.
2) "I'm an anorexic starlet, so I start my weekend with a no-cal smoothie followed by a three hour Bikram yoga class. I follow this with three successive hikes up and down Runyon Canyon, stop for a shot of wheatgrass juice and then sit on the patio at Urth without ordering anything." Pretty annoying.
3) The miscellaneous category -- usually either a rap star who rolls with his crew to Teddy's and Hyde, or a Scientologist Eastsider who hangs at Figaro and Alegria.
This week's victim must have fallen into the third category, because she liked to pick up deli food at "Jones on Third." Come on, people, Jake Gyllenhaal eats there like every five minutes -- how hard is it to spell Joan's on Third? Christy Carlson Romano admits to being fairly new to town (who else would admit to eating at Andre's Italian?), so she's got an excuse, but the Times copy editors have mostly been around forever.
Since no one in showbiz really has time to discover anywhere interesting anyway, maybe it's time to put this musty feature out of its misery.

Thursday, February 22, 2007

Quick bite: Buddha's Belly, Milk

A lot of people rag on Buddha's Belly, but on my first visit, I found nothing to complain about and enough to draw me back. There were parking places right out front, and the sunny patio was pleasant. Ramin recommended the ginger fried rice with beef (left), so we tried that and the Asian chopped salad. The fried rice is a huge, flavorful plate with veggies, beef pieces and a nice hint of ginger. A little spice would have been nice, but it's the kind of place where they don't want to scare the customers, and I can understand that. The chopped salad was also a massive pile of lettuce with little cubes of tofu and veggies, and if I were making it, I might have gone for less lettuce and more substance, but it was fine. Someone had also recommended I try the cod, but at $16.50, it seemed like a pricey lunch. So: West Hollywood prices and light on the spice, but friendly service and a crowd-pleasing pan-Asian menu make it a good casual choice on Beverly.
Then I stopped by Milk, the adorable new ice cream spot on Beverly at Poinsettia. Pictured at left are a chocolate mint ice cream bonbon, a coffee toffee crunch bonbon, and a powdered sugar cookie. The bonbons are just 25 cents each, so they're perfect for a little after-lunch treat. The cookies and baked goods looked nice, and the espresso was deep and rich. I really liked my taste of the jasmine gelato, and the banana dulce de leche gelato looked pretty attractive too. They also have sandwiches, salads, and will soon be serving breakfast, but I think the ice cream bars, cakes, elaborate milkshakes and such are probably the main attraction at this sweet spot.

Wednesday, February 21, 2007

Flora Kitchen shuts down!...and more

Longtime La Brea lunch spot Flora Kitchen has closed its doors...although the Rita Flora flower shop remains open. A flower shop employee says the space will turn into some type of Asian noodle shop in as early as three weeks...

Want to open a restaurant or a shop? Eating L.A. reader and Los Feliz real estate agent Eugene Ridenour let us know that there's a prime spot available at the corner of Prospect and Hillhurst...deets on his Eastside Real Estate blog. How about some Asian noodle love on this side of town, huh?

Don't miss Russ Parsons' story on the history of Chinese restaurants in L.A. in today's LA Times. Parsons even references the cool Chinese restaurant history exhibit we caught in New York.

Yawn...the New York Times weighs in on Pinkberry-mania.

Meanwhile, Eating L.A. checked out possibly the worst of all the Pinkberry imitators. Dance with Yogo in the Eagle Rock Mall has a novel self-serve system where you create your own yogurt mixture from the machines, then put your topping on, salad-bar-style, and get your yogurt weighed for 29 cents per ounce. The green tea was lacking any sort of flavor whatsoever, while the mango tasted pretty much like Ralph's brand orange sherbet. This yogurt thing is really getting out of hand...

Monday, February 19, 2007

Taste test: Breakfast at Blair's

A few weeks ago, Blair's in Silver Lake started opening for breakfast, and none too soon as the Coffee Table will probably be closing in just a few weeks. Fortunately it's not too crowded at the moment, but go soon, because when the Coffee Table closes it's gonna be mobbed, I tell you! The menu? You've got your blueberry pancakes with mascarpone, your oatmeal with barley (yay, something healthy); your eggs with morels and shittakes; and various Benedicts. How did chorizo get so fashionable all of a sudden? I remember when you had chorizo if you were slumming it at the Rodeo Grill, but now at Square One and Blair's and BLD it's chorizo this, chorizo that. My egg dish, pictured, isn't the most attractive, but the combo of kale and crumbled sausage is tasty and I feel virtuous when I get my first serving of greens at breakfast ($10). In fact, I'm doubly virtuous, because Blair's serves a slightly odd side of sauteed arugula with the egg dishes. I'm not really used to cooked arugula, but it actually tastes pretty good. Matt's lox and bagel platter ($12) is nicely accompanied by pickled onions instead of nasty raw ones, and lots of capers and arugula. There's some really nice looking pastries in the case and they reputedly do a decent cappucino, so perhaps I'll go back and try the pecan sticky bun that was crying my name. I've a few minor quibbles -- the fruit cup doesn't have the lush, seasonal selection of the fruit at Square One; the toast arrives with nary a scrap of butter and none is offered; and a refill of coffee might have been nice. But really, it's hard to complain when there's breakfast with wild mushrooms and sticky buns and such just down the street from my house. The lunch menu has paninis, burgers, chicken caesar salad and beet and goat cheese salad...I was more excited by the breakfast menu, but you can go either way if you're there at a brunchish time.

Wednesday, February 14, 2007

Joel Stein scores some horse

Say what you will about columnist Joel Stein, he's man enough to eat some horse in service of a Time magazine column. I'm a little prejudiced because I helped him find this mail order source of horse proscuitto, which he found quite tasty with a little arugula and lemon juice. (Since horse meat has been banned in the U.S., you have to order it from Canada.) And I agree with Joel -- running Barbaro's obit alongside deceased humans seems like it's going a bit far. If there's any leftover horse charcuterie, Joel, send it on over.

Eastside news

Just a little preview of the upcoming neighborhood news I'm working on for the Los Feliz Ledger...
Longtime Chinese favorite (or perhaps, just one of the few Chinese restaurants in the area at all) Chi Dynasty is being asked to move by its landlord, who is opening his own Chinese restaurant in the same Hillhurst Ave. spot. Jonathan Chi will move Chi Dynasty down the street to 1813 Hillhurst, near the Rustic Inn, in the space which currently houses Eastside Records. Since the space will need remodeling, there may be a few months gap between the time he moves and the time Chi re-opens in the new spot.

Melanie Tusquellas is a busy restarateur...she recently bought out partner Patti Peck at the Edendale Grill, and plans to upgrade the menu with more steaks, more seafood and more bar food. And her makeover of El Chavo is coming along...the chef and menu remain the same for now, but she'll be gradually introducing more healthy, modern Mexican dishes. In the meantime, El Chavo is now open until midnight on weeknights and 2 am on weekends for your margarita-imbibing pleasure. And on Thursdays, you can catch former X-man D.J. Bonebrake playing with a Latin jazz combo. There were even rumors she was taking over the Wild Hare in Highland Park, but Tusquellas says that's not so.

And Il Capriccio's new pizzeria is supposed to open Feb. 19 on Hollywood Blvd. near Hillhurst...cross your fingers!

Monday, February 12, 2007

Organic, Shmorganic: Pass Me the Fried Pork Bellies

...is the name of a story in the L.A. Business Journal for which I was interviewed. "Fed up with healthy fare, consumers find fat is where it's at," reads the deck. Of course, I don't condone a non-stop diet of pork bellies; I'm just commenting on the trends!

Sunday, February 11, 2007

Royale brings style back to MacArthur Park

Waaay back in the 1920s or so, Wilshire and Rampart was a snazzy place to be. The nearby Park Plaza hotel hosted some of the town's ritziest parties and fashionable folks stayed at the neon-topped Wilshire Royale Apartments, popping over to Bullock's Wilshire for tea and Perino's for dinner. Unfortunately, we all missed those days, when MacArthur Park was an actual park instead of a vast den of iniquity.
But with the ongoing revitalization of downtown, the Wilshire Corridor is also getting some sprucing up, and I was invited recently to try Royale Restaurant and Lounge, which is well in the vanguard of revitalizing the area. It may, in fact, be a few years too early for a spot this vast and ambitious to catch on in this area, but hopefully it can hang on until people move into all those condos.
Design score: You enter the Royale through an imaginatively-decorated lounge area with a giant conversation pit booth, pool table, stuffed birds and branches on the wall and other tres-2007 decor touches. Stop for a cocktail or continue directly to the restaurant across a large courtyard (smokers, get off here). The restaurant on the other side of the courtyard is the former hotel's ballroom, and it's an airy white space with twinkling lights over the bar and more branches, making for a not-unpleasant Miami Beach-meets-hunting lodge effect.

Now the chow: The food is fine, covering all the bases du jour -- spareribs, various raw fishies, Jidori chicken, truffle burger, but it has a lot of competition from the stylish room and pricey restroom accoutrements. My short rib main course with buttermilk mashed potatoes and chard was quite good and the garlic parmesan fries were rather addictive. Desserts seek to placate your inner child; the cotton candy made my teeth hurt, but there's also root beer floats, Valrhona cake and chocolate chip cookies in case you don't do blue food.

Don't forget to stop by the bathroom with its show-stopper $6,000 toilet, which was already covered by The Knife -- suffice it to say that sitting on a pre-heated seat and then being gently cleansed by a stream of warm water in a restaurant restroom is probably something everyone should try once.

What it's good for: dates, parties, Downtown and Koreatown dwellers, lovers of updated comfort food, the young and young at heart
Not so much: kids, vegetarians

Thursday, February 08, 2007

Chefs helping Farms: great meals for charity

Chefs helping Farms has organized several excellent restaurants to plan special prix fixe meals benefitting farmers who lost crops in the recent California freeze. Details on the Freeze Relief meals can be found at ExperienceLA or at Slow Food L.A.; participating restaurants include all the cool cats of the L.A. restaurant scene such as Grace, Angeli, Lucques, AOC, Canele and the Hungry Cat. Many of the special dinners are on Sunday, so book fast.

Little Tokyo afternoon: Ramen and froyo

I wanted to pick up some black cod and sundry Japanese groceries at Mitsuwa, so we stopped for lunch in the Little Tokyo Square mall at Hana-Ichimonme, which was recommended on Rameniac's blog. It was a perfect lunch spot, cute and cozy with a wide selection of ramen and bargain combination lunches. We had the signature Hanaichi ramen with is made with a soy sauce base; it has a distinctive taste of fish stock, which was fine by us but lighter and distinctive from the rich pork-based broth at Daikokuya. They also have the pork-based one and a miso-based one, with toppings like corn, kimchee and stir-fried vegetables. The pork gyoza were light, yet crispy and greasy in the best way; there's also a huge selection of rainbow-hued fruit drinks with various combos of red beans, ice cream, rice cake, gelatin cubes, etc. And my favorite, coffee jello. But we skipped dessert there and instead tried out Fiore/IF, the Pinkberry-esque spot in the Japanese Village Plaza. I like the clear plastic chairs and furry pink couch on which Matt chills in the photo, and I found the sour yogurt/green tea swirl very intriguing. I kept sampling a bit of the green tea and a bit of the sour flavor to see which I preferred, until it was practically gone. Very refreshing after a bowl of hot, salty ramen, but I don't think I'll be rushing there all the time when Pinkberry opens in Silver Lake.

Wednesday, February 07, 2007

Happy Birthday Layne!


Yesterday was my friend Layne's birthday and instead of a bash, the uber-foodie Manifeasto goddess chose to spend her day waitressing and assisting in the kitchen at Square One in Los Feliz. Service was pretty good for a novice, at least at breakfast when I stopped in. Layne didn't make all these brioche loaves in the photo, but she would have liked to.

Monday, February 05, 2007

New Concept closes for remodeling

One of Monterey Park's fave Chinese places, New Concept, known for its dim sum and imaginative dinners, is all closed up, says Chowhounder Graphracker. I have to say, the last time we had dim sum there, I found the service even surlier than usual and the dim sum just average. Hopefully they will get their act together and re-open as something exciting.

Saturday, February 03, 2007

Celadon gets pan-Asian right

I was invited to visit Celadon, the newish Asian small plates restaurant in the Third St. space formerly occupied by Yi, a pan-Asian restaurant with Filipino touches that seemed to scare off diners, and Tahiti, which was pleasant but didn't have much focus.
Design score: The space gets prettier and prettier with each redo, now with a fireplace in the lounge, Chinese antiques on the covered patio, and a room full of beds in back because every cool restaurant these days needs beds, right? Flickering tealights line the walls of the main dining room, and a wall of water gets things off to a splashy start.
Drinkability: I started off with a perfectly tart sake mojito with a welcome hint of cucumber; a green tea cheesecake martini sounded scary but the bartender gave us tastes of Calpico, the Japanese milky soft drink used to make the drink and it was alluringly sour/sweet/milky in a Pinkberryish kind of way, so maybe the cocktail would be good. Lots of sakes to choose from, too.
Now the chow: We had tastes of a dozen or so different dishes; stand-outs were the alfredo crab wontons; the perfectly-cooked roast salmon with tzaziki (pictured); the maple duck with Israeli couscous and the saraudon crispy noodles with scallops. Chef Danny Elmaleh uses influences from lots of cuisine and integrates all the flavors well, which is an improvement over the all-too-common pan-Asian places where everything tastes of sweet soy sauce. The dishes are imaginative, although some of his refined touches like the yuzu truffle viniagrette on the wontons didn't pop for me; either my palate is rather coarse, or the richness of the dishes overwhelmed the tricky garnishes.
What it's good for: Hot dates, girl's night out; drinks and aps; when you're looking for something lively but not too pricey or packed. Not so much: kids, grandma, vegetarians, people who don't like seafood, although there are other options.

Friday, February 02, 2007

The Square One love-in continues

I re-reviewed Square One Dining in this month's Los Feliz Ledger...scroll down past the article on pet dentistry if you want to read it online. It's still excellent, although the cobb salad wasn't my favorite thing there.

And Franklin Ave.'s Mike and Maria got there for their Rate-a-Restaurant blog recently; they liked it too.

Restaurants coming soon, and one that never will

  • Milk on Beverly Blvd. at Poinsettia opens Thursday, Feb. 8, just in time for some Valentinue's treats. The cafe will have milky things like ice cream bonbons and ice cream sandwiches, as well as bakery items, breakfast, soup, salads and coffee drinks. The phone number is 323-939-6455.
  • If you were waiting for the last two or so years for the opening of the Franklin Hills Cafe on Hyperion, wait no more...the sign has finally come down and the quaint cottage is to become an Auctionworks outlet, for people who want to sell stuff on Ebay.
  • Also on Hyperion, Maui Smoothies is taking quite a long time to open, strangely enough, next to Svelte Yogurt and down the block from the upcoming Pinkberry.
  • More optimistically, Capriccio's Pizzeria on Hollywood Blvd. has all the interior fixtures, and looks like it could be opening soon.

But where will the Intelligentsia park?

Eating L.A. agrees that Silver Lake is the right place for Intelligentsia Coffee to locate; after all, that's where us smart, coffee-deprived folks live. It's always been pretty tough to get a decent latte in Silver Lake, so it sounds good to us. But we think there's going to be plenty of competition for those dozen-or-so parking spaces behind the Cheese Shop when Intelligentsia opens in April. And the 'rents will have someplace new to kill time while the sprogs take their guitar lessons at the Silver Lake Conservatory.

Thursday, February 01, 2007

Wine 101 and a tipsy bear


The last two nights I've been taking an Introduction to Wine class at the Wine Hotel on Third St. I've tasted plenty of wonderful wines, but I really felt like I needed some kind of framework to base my tastings on, and it's hard to get that when you're just lurching from winery to wine shop tasting to restaurant dinner...to bed. If you're a single guy, you'll want to check out these classes, as there were about 16 attractive women and just one guy! The teacher ("Reece, as in Reisling") was engaging and informative and we got to try some really good wines from the Wine Hotel's small, selective wine shop. I took home an intriguing bottle of Cabernet from Bear Trap Canyon Winery (about $20), which we were surprised to hear is in the foothills of Angeles Crest National Forest near Acton. I had no idea they were making unusual cabs right here in L.A. County, but it's definitely worth a try. And if your wine knowledge could use a brush-up, I would recommend the Wine Hotel's Introduction to Wine Class.