Monday, February 27, 2006

Blogmania

I had heard that chef Rodelio Aglibot had left Yi, but I didn't know what he was up to... It turns out he's going to take a three month "culinary sabbatical" (got any room in your suitcase, Rod?) to India, Southeast Asia, Turkey, etc. He'll be documenting his travels on his blog Swininganddining. Bon voyage!

Just discovered New York Times' restaurant critic Frank Bruni's blog Diner's Journal. Of course, it's completely New York-centric, but it's a nice idea, and one that the L.A. Times could certainly emulate.

And if you're a fan of Frank Bruni, then of course, don't miss the Bruni Digest, an entire blog devoted to mocking the critic's writing. If only S. Irene engendered such passion...

Friday, February 24, 2006

The feeling that is Campo's

Campos famous avocado burrito, left; turkey taco, right
It's no Musso and Frank, but Campo's is part of my own L.A. restaurant history. As a small child, I was taken often to the Brown Derby, Perino's, the Polo Lounge and the Luau. But as a teenager, I rode my bike to Campo's on Pico and 20th. After volunteering at KCRW on a scarily retro childrens' radio show, we chowed down on their signature turkey tacos and avocado burritos, and figured that was what Mexican food tasted like. Now, of course I know that most good Mexican food tastes very little like Campos, but somehow I don't really care. There's something about the way they fry the corn tortillas around crispy little shreds of turkey and then sprinkle orange cheese on top that tastes just right. Same with the avocado burrito -- so bland you could feed it to infants, always in need of a sprinkle of salt, but the combination of soothing beans and smooth cool guacamole just goes down so well. I've been eating at Campo's so long that they were actually called Las Palmas when I started, but they had to change their name because another restaurant had that name. So long that the Pico outlet was the only one, and I feel still the best. So long that like the Zankou Chicken on Sunset, I still think of the restaurant as half its size. Oh, and Matt got a carne asada burrito. He said it was good, but I didn't taste it, because like Jonathan Gold with the birria at El Parian, I'm only allowed to order the turkey tacos and avocado burrito.

Thursday, February 23, 2006

Notes for Thursday

Heard about a new group called the Los Angeles Restaurant Historical Society via LAObserved. The group's first meeting on March 18 will feature Jim Heimann, Charles Perry, and Jonathon Foerstel of LATimeMachines.

A Chowhound contact reports that the famous Renu Nakorn might close next year...got to get there soon just in case. I called the restaurant and they said the building was sold, but they're still waiting to hear from the landlord.

Franklin Avenue's Rate-a-restaurant visits Yuca's and the Eagle Rock Coffee Table.

LACitynerd starts a series on how to order at famous L.A. eating spots.

Also closed or closing, if anyone cares: Cha Cha Cha in Encino, and The Old Spaghetti Factory in Hollywood for yet more condos.

And finally, L.A. Citybeat adds a new restaurant reviewer -- bon vivant and friend of Eating L.A., Martin Booe will contribute along with regular reviewer Richard Foss. Here's his first article from a few weeks ago about Mexican gems...although Citybeat should be able to figure out how to spell Yuca's, you would think.

Sunday, February 19, 2006

Sophistication in Los Feliz: Vinoteca Farfalla


Farfalla's wine-by-the-glass system

We thought Vinoteca Farfalla might be deserted Friday evening -- after all, it was threatening to drizzle, which practically counts as a hurricane for most Angelenos. But Kathy and I could barely get in the door at the bustling wine bar, where youngish couples and groups of ladies-who-lurch were packing the narrow space. We found a few inches of bar to lean on and ordered up a Chateau St. Paul and a Nebbiolo from the large blackboard of wines by the glass. The selections are mostly French and Italian, with a few Californians for good measure, and start at a reasonable $7 per glass. Eventually two seats at the bar cleared, and we were able to peer at the menu and order a salami and cheese plate. Some of the menu selections are vaguely South American, since the wine bar shares a kitchen with the Brazilian Tropicalia next door, with empanadas and black beans and plaintains. Prices are pretty high -- $19 for risotto, $13 for fritto misto with calamari and shrimp -- but it's more about the wine, anyway.

The salami plate was ok if a little haphazardly assembled, and the basket of garlicky crostini will help fill you up. We also tried a Malbec, which was reasonably priced, but suffered in comparison to our French and Italian choices. This place is full of life, the perfect spot to huddle on a rainy night, but a little loud for actual conversation.
Vinoteca Farfalla
1968 Hillhurst Ave.
(323) 661-8070

Monday, February 13, 2006

What's going on with The Coffee Table? (Corrected)

Just a few days after hearing that Silver Lake's Coffee Table lost its lease, Eating L.A. received this alert for the huge condo project proposed for the Coffee Table site. Developer Paul Pagnone says the Coffee Table will lease back a new space in the development, which makes sense since it's on a commercial block, and he says there will be plenty of parking. But this 64-unit planned development clearly seems way too big for that incredibly busy and cramped stretch of Rowena. Here's the gist:

URGENT ACTION ALERT
-64 condo development 3 stories high planned for Rowena Ave.
-buildings along 200 feet of Rowena to be demolished, including The Coffee Table, 3 lots engulfed by new construction
-traffic, parking, pedestrian safety: how will these issues be addressed?
Attend the community meeting on Wednesday, Feb. 22 at 7:00 p.m. at Ivanhoe School
Write or call councilmember Tom LaBonge (Tom.Labonge@lacity.org) and Chief Planning Deputy Renee Weitzer (Renee.Weitzer@lacity.org)
Contact the Silver Lake Neighborhood Council at (323) 661-7562 -- Urge them to downscale the project!
Visit www.rowenacommunityvision.com, make copies of the flyer and elevation and distribute them on your block.
archived comments:
cybele said:
Wow! I had no idea that's what was going on over there. I haven't been to TCT for a couple of months. I'm posting on blogging.la to try to get the word out.This is going to completely change Hyperion, and I don't think it's a positive step. Thanks for the heads up.
Anonymous said...
I think condo projects are a great thing for our city. We have a severe housing shortage and massive sprawl to the I.E. and the valley. More people living IN the city is a good thing... don't be afraid of urban infill! It actually creates less traffic and allows people to walk to more destinations. Rowena is a very busy street and would be the perfect place for this type of project.
Pat Saperstein said...
In general, I agree that we need more infill. But there are still tons of empty lots -- like the condos being built under Sunset Blvd. at Myra -- and that part of Rowena is already too congested. I also have a hard time with tearing down small-scale older buildings in order to put up much larger ones.
Anonymous said...
well, if i'm remembering correctly what order the buildings are in, we'll lose three awful ugly low density retail and one cute house (also retail). it could be worse.as a long time silverlaker, and someone who would like to own property in the hood, i'm in favor of this project. the density can only make silverlake an even better place to live. i don't believe that the width of the street dictates the proper or correct height of the buildings. in fact, i would even be in favor of slimming rowena down to one lane in either direction and painting in bikelanes, diagonal parking, and installing wide sidewalks (all the better for the new coffeetable). but of course, i've never studied such design, just lived in it.
Scott said...
64 condos is not that huge...
bza said...
I agree this is not a "monstrosity" on the order of what they were planning at the derby, but you have to admit that that intersection already has enough congestion. Don't be fooled into thinking just because there is a supermarket around the corner no one who lives there is going to be driving anywhere.
Anonymous said...
No further development of Rowena should happen without first taking measures to make walking, bicycling and driving in this area SAFE. Ivanhoe Elementary School is a block away. People run the light at W. Silverlake EVERY DAY. I know - I walk my daughter to school EVERY DAY. I live and walk here - DO YOU? Pedestrians have been seriously injured on several occassions trying to cross the street at Herkimer (from the Coffee Table, etc). 130+ parking spaces will only invite MORE TRAFFIC. To permit this new development (or any future development) to go in without properly addressing the horrible safety situation along Rowena is IRRESPONSIBLE and lacks foresight or concern for the community.The Pagnone development will set a precedent for other developers along Rowena. It is already a gauntlet for those who live, work, walk and ride. I am pro-develoment, but I am pro-sensible development. So far, no one has demonstrated that the 64-Unit Complex is sensible, responsible, or right for the community. For more information, please visit http://rowenacommunityvision.com and sign up for the mailing list. A community meeting on the subject will be held at Ivanhoe School Wed. February 22, 2006 at 7pm
Anonymous said...
I don't buy it. Condo projects on the scale of this Rowena one belong near metro stops. Urban infill is OK only if the density of a community can sustain it. Does the developer live in Silver Lake? I doubt it. Anyone who shops at Trader Joes and lives near Rowena knows that Silver Lake is dense enough. It's not about what will be torn down, it's about the impact of what might go in. It doesn't look too bad but this modern thing is going to take up such a huge portion of the block we might all just as well be living on the westside. It's got no character and it's not responsible. It's just about money, not the community. Like I said, I don't buy it.
Anonymous said...
add another trader joes in the area and it'll be okay
Anonymous said...
I don't think Silverlake is all that dense, but it does have the worst drivers and parkers in the city. The TJ's lot is designed for mayhem. I doubt that 64 condos are going to change Hyperion/Rowena all that much--it's already a racetrack to the 2.
Donna B. said...
I saw the action sign the other night, but I had no idea Coffee Table was actually going to close. That is such a famous place, I have friends who want to go there before anyplace else around here. I hate Blairs, so over-priced with mediocre food, and there's no place else for pretty good, pretty cheap.But even more, it gives the area a kind of character that enhances the value of property here, whereas a condo would certainly detract from its value. And there are the cutest apartment buildings right next to the CT, with interesting spaces between them. The design is so fascinating that I've gone up there just to walk around! I've never seen apartments like that, but I guess they don't count for any kind of design status.As far as Rowena being busy, I find it impossible to cross the block during the daytime, and I have to, to mail anything down the block there. Trader Joe's is a joke, and how many accidents I've almost been in, and how many arguments have I gotten in with the crappy drivers? Too many. Everyone in my apt building agrees the TJ is the WORST, in the city! I'd rather go to others in the valley, that are bigger and cleaner and faster!I blame La Bonge for all of this overbuilding, and pandering to businesses and the higher bidder. I have lots of stories about him. I've been to several meetings, taken him on before, and I'll surely go to this one.
Anonymous said...
"Everyone in my apt building agrees the TJ is the WORST, in the city! I'd rather go to others in the valley, that are bigger and cleaner and faster!"If you want mayhem, try the TJ's on Beverly and La Brea.Sorry to see the Coffee Table go. I ate their regularly before its expansion.
Anonymous said...
to the person that said Rowena isn't going to change all that much: I hope Pat writes an article about you eating your words. I'll be there with condiments.
Instapi said...
I was told by a local activist distributing flyers against the new building project that the owner of the Coffee Table had actually chosen to sell to the developer: did the CT guy sell or did he lose his lease because his landlord wanted to sell? Thanks to the people in the know,
Donna B said...
Emmanuelle,I am wondering the same thing. It's very suspicious that suddenly the CT can't afford its rent now, but it knows it can afford it after it's all built up by this builder??? The CT is obviously in cahoots with the builder!I saw a notice last night put up by the builder, right underneath the Activist notice. It was sort of threatening, saying that if we don't let THIS builder do the job, some other builder won't listen to the community, and will do worse! (Of course, I took it down! :)
Anonymous said...
curious, I did some research. in eagle rock the same names pop up together: Sislin, Pagnone and Coffee Table. What the hell is going on? Is our community being coopted?
MCE said...
place the frustration where it's due ... with Trader Joes, theyre either really incompetent or sadistic ... they know perfectly well how popular their stores are and how much traffic they will generate yet they continue to build cramped stores no larger than mini-marts with insufficient parking ... if they had some vision/responsibility they would build something on scale with the Gelsons around the street ... Silverlake is not dense ... especially in the immediate area were talking about ... except for the odd apartment building the area is primarily single-family detached homes ... the only area even approaching some concept of density is the area further south ... furthermore, as stated, the CT isnt going anywhere, itll have a new space in the development ... I find it laughable that you all cite parking and congestion as a concern over a project that includes parking as opposed to an existing building that relies entirely on (non-existent) street parkingeveryone assumes the developer is evil ... what is wrong with investment in the community? these are people who want to move in and support businesses in the area and take advantage of the many amenities of this neighborhood ... dont villify these people for wanting the same things you already have ... I dont think the scale of the project matters, which for the record isnt that big, I think you would oppose any new development in favor of some unrealistic vision of what you want your community to be ... this is an urban neighborhood in flux, like everywhere else, projects like these help to create streetlife and bring new customers for businessesRowena is not all that, its a tired shabby street with a few bright spots that unfortunately have no relationship to each other because there are so many deadspots on the street ... the addition of street traffic from new residents could spur additional investment ... maybe it could be much more than a shortcut to the 2 and for the record, Im a resident
Anonymous said...
development is welcome as long as it fits. And by the way, there isn't any vision for Rowena unrealistic or otherwise. And that's the problem. Where's the planning?
Anonymous said...
I'm going to the community meeting. Hope everyone else here is.
Anonymous said...
to the person who said..."Rowena is not all that, its a tired shabby street with a few bright spots that unfortunately have no relationship to each other "This project will widen the dead spots even more...this development plan has way "less character" ...it looks sterile and boring to me and I am wondering how this is going to affect the other businesses on Rowena.... I doubt that this condo project is going to improve the foot traffic in that area. It only means more cars and more congestion.I agree that if TJ's would find a better spot in Silverlake with sufficient parking (perhaps somewhere along Riverside Dr.) it would improve the craziness along Hyperion and maybe people wouldn't use Rowena as a shortcut to the 2 FWY.
Anonymous said...
I suggest that anyone commenting on this look at the illustration of what this building will look like -- there is no visible commercial space at all and it is an enormous monolith that looks nothing like Silverlake and literally dwarfs anything around it. Also, what no one is saying is that one of the best things about our neighborhood is being able to walk to great, funky boutiques and restaurants that really epitomize the Silverlake feeling -- and this project will replace four of our commercial buildings on one of the most prominent streets with one huge residential structure. This would detract from the neighborhood and works against the principles of urban infill, which is supposed to be about less driving, not more. I support additional housing and don't have a problem with condos that make sense for the neighborhood (I actually work for one of the largest residential developers in the country) -- but this doesn't make sense. And for those of you who think this will create affordable housing, look at the history of what these types of condos go for and think again.
Anonymous said...
I second what some folks said earlier. Just because people will be living within walking distance of TJs doesn't mean for one dang second that they will actually WALK there. As an Angeleno who doesn't mind walking blocks upon blocks to avoid using valets in most of the city, ($8? That's a drink at the bar, man), I'm always shocked to see my coworkers driving to lunch when it's a mere 5-10 minute walk away. citizenrobot.com

A youth's initiation to El Parian


My son has become quite the carne asada aficionado in the last few years. And since I haven't been able to interest him in sushi beyond California rolls or Chinese food beyond spareribs and fried rice, I figured it was only fair that he at least try the reputed best carne asada. He was ravenous after an hour of intense sparring in karate class when we stopped by El Parian. Yes, it looks closed on the outside, but parking was easy behind the restaurant, and I was surprised to see lots of tables and a cooler of beers, which practically equals fine dining to me. I had thought it would be a truly basic tiny stand, but there's plenty of room to spread out and tuck into your food here. We watched several bowls of steaming birria come out of the kitchen, and after my son's sarcastic yet ill-informed crack, "What do you mean they serve the best goat in L.A., how much competition could they have?," we both allowed that actually the goat looked pretty good. But it was a day for carne asada, so after watching the tortilla lady make the tortillas for our tacos right in front of us, we took our tacos home where ripe avocados awaited us. We adorned our tacos with chunks of avocado and dug into rich, intensely beefy flavored tacos with freshly-made tortillas. They didn't have the little charred bits I had heard about, and they were almost too beefy for my timid beef-eating self. But Matt and Sam loved them, and I have to say, this is one quality taco. Maybe we'll go there for Valentine's Day.
El Parian
1528 W. Pico
(213) 386-7361

Sunday, February 12, 2006

Hooch in Echo Park, woo hoo!

(Left, some fine Echo Park hooch)
Eating L.A., which is sometimes Drinking L.A. too, couldn't miss the demonstration of making corn whiskey in an Echo Park gallery. So Saturday night we checked out the Machine Projects talk where Alison explained why she wanted to build a still, and how to make corn whiskey. It seems considerably more complicated than brewing beer, which I gave up long ago along with making pasta and other labor-intensive pursuits. Samples were liberally distributed, and although I don't usually drink straight whiskey, I found it surprisingly tasty. It was much smoother than I would expect homebrewed hooch to be, providing a pleasantly warm feeling without any alcohol burn. I found about about Machine Projects through BoingBoing, which is fast becoming one of my favorite blogs. I used to think it was too hard to wade through all the geek-speak, but now I find it easy enough to quickly scan it for things non-computer programmers would be interested in, and there's always some good stuff on there.

Tuesday, February 07, 2006

Taste test: Comfort Cafe

Comfort Cafe, adjacent to Bodybuilder's Gym on Hyperion, is likely the closest restaurant to my house. But I didn't get a chance to try it until they started opening for Sunday brunch this weekend. It's a small place with a modern design where you order at the counter, with lots of magazines to read while they cook the food.

For brunch, there's omelettes, eggs benedict, waffles and baked French toast, along with plenty of sandwiches and salads for lunch. I chose the eggs Florentine -- poached eggs with spinach, sliced tomatoes and fruit cup on the side. This dish isn't served on an English muffin -- it's for those who are attempting to be healthy at breakfast time. But the eggs and spinach were perfectly cooked, and I felt terribly virtuous after eating it, even though I stole a piece of Matt's wheat toast.

Matt had salmon hash with scrambled eggs (above) which seemed tasty, but a little dry. I guess all that sinful fat in corned beef hash is what kind of holds it together. Anyway, there's lots of healthy options for bodybuilders and regular folks, from flank steak 'n eggs to sides of broccoli and brown rice to smoothies.
Verdict: Going out to breakfast is like going out to any other meal -- it's not just about the food -- it's the buzz, the people, the whole package. It's like, you're pissed you got to Madame Matisse after the guy with the trucker hat and his girlfriend with the artfully frayed clothes snagged the last table, but you're still kind of glad you get to look at them while you eat. The cafe was kind of deserted and lonely, but it will probably get more lively when more people hear about Sunday brunch. Brunch dishes are in the $8-10 range -- I guess that's the going rate these days, but it seems a tad high. In short, it's a good place for healthy fare if you don't feel like cooking -- but not a place for peoplewatching or truly special dishes.
Comfort Cafe
2520 Hyperion Ave.
(323) 666-5616

Sunday, February 05, 2006

Preview: Ford's Filling Station

mini lamb chop at Ford's Filling Station
Chef Ben Ford, previously of Chadwick, is opening Ford's Filling Station in Culver City on Valentine's Day. I had a peek of the gastropub-style menu and the space at an opening reception Saturday -- dad Harrison and Calista also stopped by -- and it looked like a worthy addition to the slowly blossoming Culver City restaurant scene. Ford wants his new place to be more informal and looser than Chadwick's, which focused on organic, sustainable cuisine. This restaurant has a clearly manly slant, with offerings running to Maytag blue cheese burgers, shortribs with horseradish mashed potatoes and Berkshire Hog pork chops. There's also a selection of flatbreads with unusual toppings like lamb pesto, for snacking on with beers on the patio. We sampled an array of cheeses and pates (charcuterie will come from suppliers such as Salumi) and appetizers like shrimp po'boys, mini lamb chops, a very savory beef tartare and lentil bruschetta. Ford's will start opening for lunch in March, which should certainly make the folks at Sony happy.
Ford's Filling Station
9531 Culver Blvd.
Culver City
(310) 202-1470
Archived comments:
Anonymous said...

Just saw the place driving by last week! Can't wait to try it. So many places opening in CC, do you know what UGO is? It was next to Ford's I think... Love your site.

Steve Wasser said...

I work right down the street, so I'm going to jog over to taste test a lunch! Nice picture preview.

Anonymous said...

I loved Chadwicks which was on the cusp of being profitable when it closed. I'm not even going to make a snide remark about Ben's cheap bastard of an old man.
Kate

Anonymous said...

Disappointing. Visually unattractive. DO not honor reservations. Don't get entrees out at the the same time for the table. Couldn't wait to get home and brush my teeth to get the bad taste out.

Anonymous said...

Ford's Filling Station should change their name to Ford's UNFULFilling Station. Do they think everybody's on the Zone or something? Cannot the Young Ford ask Pappy ford to throw in a few cents so they can offer paying customers a few for micks per plate? Oy, yoy, yoy...

Friday, February 03, 2006

Product of the year, so far: Activia yogurt

Now, I'm usually not one for touting mass-produced, sugar-sweetened grocery store products. Nor do any of you really need to know much about my inner functioning. Let's just say that I'm pretty darn amped about Dannon's new Activia yogurt. It contains a special strain of probiotics that is scientifically proven to "reduce intestinal transit time." If that sounds wierd to you, then just skip this post. But if it sounds like it could be helpful, then try Activa, which starts working after a week or so of eating one container a day. I actually like the prune flavor, but I'm wierd. In France, where they've had this since 1987 under the Bio label, those lucky frogs can get the stuff in flavors like cranberry, kiwi, rhubarb, coconut and muesli. Here's the French site, where you can watch cute TV commercials for Activia. Enough said.

Wednesday, February 01, 2006

Waiter, is that a pubic hair in my soup?

LA.com reports on a new reality show, "Naked Catering" which will shoot an episode with naked waiters at Miyagi's on Valentine's Day...Apparently tickets are still available, but I think the only thing worse than having to go to Miyagi's, drunken frat boy central of the Sunset Strip, on Valentine's Day, would be going to Miyagi's while various body parts flapped near your face while you place your order.

Food find of the week: Trader Joe's chili-spiced dried mango. If you like spicy snacks, I defy you to make a package of this last more than a few days. If you don't like spicy snacks, then send some to me.

Nice story on street food of Ghana in the New York Times. Answer to Chowhound poster: No, I'm pretty sure there isn't any street food from Ghana available in L.A. Nor are there any Bukharian restaurants, as far as I know. Well, we can't have everything. I wonder what are the most unusual cuisines or regions represented in L.A.? Here's a few cuisines which are sorely lacking around here: Turkish, Portuguese, New Mexico-style food.