Sunday, August 07, 2005

New feature: Ask Eating L.A.

This week I'm starting a new feature -- Ask Eating L.A. I'm not trying to horn in on Chowhound or Jonathan Gold, just to offer my own perspective on eating around L.A.
This week, Whitman, who is new to L.A., asks:
"I'm curious what you think are the best places to eat in Silverlake. In particular, what do you recommend for (i) Indian; (ii) Japanese; or (iii) Mexican food? You should post a 'top 10' list of your favorite places to eat in Silverlake."

OK, Whitman, here goes: For Indian, I'll go with Agra, but I also like India's Sweets and Spices in Atwater. Tantra has a swell design, but it's a little pricey, and the service is often spaced out and downright bad. I don't dislike Electric Lotus as much as others do, but perhaps it's seen better days.
For Japanese, Saito is a great sushi bar, and there's not much else to choose from in the immediate area. If you want more interesting cooked dishes, ramen, etc., you'll have to go downtown to little Tokyo.
For Mexican, I'm pretty faithful to Malo. I used to like the food at Alegria, but I had to give up because the service was so bad. I also like Barragan's in Echo Park, and I hear good things about the taco truck on Alvarado near Von's.

Here's my Silver Lake/Los Feliz/nearby top 10:
1) Gingergrass
2) Malo
3) Saito
4) Nadpob Thai
5) Mae Ploy Thai
6) Madame Matisse
7) KP's Vietnamese Deli
8) Rambutan
9) Millie's
10) Barragan's
Honorable mention to Vermont, Yuca's, Alcove, Agra, India's Sweets and Spices, etc. I still haven't been to Cliff's Edge and I don't like Cafe Stella, Edendale Grill, Masa, El Conquistador, etc. Cirxa is now closed, by the way, and none too soon.
Oh, and you didn't ask, but here's my top 5 local bars:
1) Johnny's
2) Mixville at Edendale Grill
3) Red Lion
4) Little Joy
5) Footsie's
Archived comments:
shooz said...

Would love to see a similar list for my area, the eastern outskirts of West Hollywood -- it is a tough place to find good eats!

Whitman said...

This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks so much for the advice!

Anonymous said...

What do you order at Mae Ploy? I have never had anything that knocked my socks off there... I think Dusty's is a good option too (not on the top 10 list).

Pat Saperstein said...

I still haven't been to Dusty's or Aroma...so many places to try! At Mae Ploy, I like the eggplant salad, the tofu larb, the crab noodles, the spicy mint noodles, the spicy beef salad...I don't know that it knocks your socks off exactly, but it's pretty solid stuff for the area, and they deliver.

Foodie Universe said...

I definitely agree with you on Gingergrass; however, I thought Rambutan was only slightly above average--the food was pretty good, but didn't do anything to impress me. Also, the restaurant was very loud and crowded on a Saturday night, and the service was on the stuffy side.

Their sign looks just like the sign for Akwa, a sushi restaurant in Santa Monica. Do you think there is a connection?

Anonymous said...

solid list, thanks for posting it!

I'd add El Cochinito, the Cuban restaurant next-door to Alegria (which, I agree, doesn't deserve a place on this list). El Cochinito's lechon asado and pollo dishes and fried plantains are all fantastic! good prices too.

love your blog!

Anonymous said...

Here's a topic for you:

Best working person's breakfast in the area.

As opposed to 'best Silverlake trust fund recipient's late morning breakfast in hipster/slacker cafe'.

Anonymous said...

not meaning to incite class warfare here, just a thought. In other city's there are places where fast, tasty and reasonable means something to folks who need to be somewhere at 9AM every day.
I get a blue-collar kick and carb-heavy start to the day at Rick's on Riverside once in awhile.

Anonymous said...

Nice list, thanks. But, it seems that one place is conspicuously absent: Blairs. Not even an honorable mention?

74 comments:

shooz said...

Would love to see a similar list for my area, the eastern outskirts of West Hollywood -- it is a tough place to find good eats!

Whitman said...

This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks so much for the advice!

Anonymous said...
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
Anonymous said...

What do you order at Mae Ploy? I have never had anything that knocked my socks off there... I think Dusty's is a good option too (not on the top 10 list).

Pat Saperstein said...

I still haven't been to Dusty's or Aroma...so many places to try! At Mae Ploy, I like the eggplant salad, the tofu larb, the crab noodles, the spicy mint noodles, the spicy beef salad...I don't know that it knocks your socks off exactly, but it's pretty solid stuff for the area, and they deliver.

Foodie Universe said...

I definitely agree with you on Gingergrass; however, I thought Rambutan was only slightly above average--the food was pretty good, but didn't do anything to impress me. Also, the restaurant was very loud and crowded on a Saturday night, and the service was on the stuffy side.

Their sign looks just like the sign for Akwa, a sushi restaurant in Santa Monica. Do you think there is a connection?

Anonymous said...

solid list, thanks for posting it!

I'd add El Cochinito, the Cuban restaurant next-door to Alegria (which, I agree, doesn't deserve a place on this list). El Cochinito's lechon asado and pollo dishes and fried plantains are all fantastic! good prices too.

love your blog!

Anonymous said...

Here's a topic for you:

Best working person's breakfast in the area.

As opposed to 'best Silverlake trust fund recipient's late morning breakfast in hipster/slacker cafe'.

Anonymous said...

not meaning to incite class warfare here, just a thought. In other city's there are places where fast, tasty and reasonable means something to folks who need to be somewhere at 9AM every day.
I get a blue-collar kick and carb-heavy start to the day at Rick's on Riverside once in awhile.

Anonymous said...

Nice list, thanks. But, it seems that one place is conspicuously absent: Blairs. Not even an honorable mention?

interactivehank said...

A friend of mine forwarded me this list. Thought it was pretty good myself.

-----

20 of the most delicious deals you'll find around town


* Count yourself among the lucky: You're in just the place to eat royally
on a shoestring.


By Betty Baboujon and Leslie Brenner, Times Staff Writers

A splendid three-course dinner in a three-star restaurant can be had for the
price of an entrée. A dozen oysters on the half-shell are yours for 15 bucks
— and there's even an ocean view. A sashimi lunch at one of the city's best
sushi bars is priced so low you think it must be a mistake.

Restaurant prices may seem out of sight these days, but there are deals out
there, delicious ones. We've searched high and low for the best of them,
from Little Saigon to Studio City, from East L.A. to Pacific Palisades. We
found them in taquerías and trattorias, bustling pho houses and chic new
dining rooms. So put away that maxed-out credit card and rev up your
appetite. A world of irresistible — and affordable — delights is waiting to
be discovered. For our list of favorites, see Page 5

FOR THE RECORD:
Food bargains —An article in the Food section Wednesday about delicious
deals around town identified Robert Rogness as the owner of Wine Expo in
Santa Monica. Rogness is the general manager of the wine shop. Ali Biglar is
the owner. The article also said the oyster happy hour at Ocean Ave. Seafood
in Santa Monica is from 4 to 4:30 p.m. Monday to Friday. It's from 4 to 6:30
p.m.

_____

1. Coctel de camarones (shrimp cocktail) at Mariscos Guillen, $3.50. Out of
a little blue shack at the border of Santa Monica and Venice comes a big
white cup brimming with an outrageously good coctel. Unlike their American
counterparts, Mexican seafood cocktails don't involve thick, sweet,
ketchupy, horseradishy cocktail sauce; these are soupier and brighter in
flavor, almost like a cross between gazpacho and ceviche.

At Mariscos Guillen, the coctel de camarones is a cool concoction of
succulent shrimp (about a dozen of them in the "small" 12-ounce serving),
ripe avocado chunks and chopped tomatoes, onions and cilantro in a
tomato-clam broth. Spike it with a squeeze of lime and a splash of hot sauce
— just be sure to ask for the latter. You'll never have to ask for the stack
of tostadas that come with it, though; break off a shard and dip it into
this divine — and generously portioned — cocktail. There's nowhere to sit,
really; Tiny La Playita (as Mariscos Guillen is also known) is more of a
takeout joint. (Its Hawthorne location, however, has restaurant seating.)
Mariscos Guillen (La Playita), 3306 Lincoln Blvd., Santa Monica; (310)
452-0090. Also at 12319 Prairie Ave., Hawthorne; (310) 973-1810.



2. Special combination pho at Pho Thang Long, small, $4.95; large, $5.45.
There are a million bowls of pho out there — and many are interchangeably
good. But this Vietnamese beef noodle soup (No. 15 on the menu, pho bo thap
cam) stands out even in Westminster's Little Saigon. It's the broth that
gets your attention: Full-bodied and unmistakably beefy, it's made by
simmering bones and meat with grilled onions, ginger and herbs. The special
combo is also a fun pho to eat. It includes tender slices of rare and
well-done steak, chewy little slabs of brisket, crunchy slivers of tripe and
gelatinous hunks of shank. Squeeze some chile sauce and hoisin sauce on your
condiment dish, and dip as you eat the meaty morsels. You can add even more
flavor and texture, picking from the rau son (side plate of herbs) — here it
includes basil, sawtooth and shiso, bean sprouts, jalapeño slices and lime
wedges. The small bowl is plenty generous, but if you're on either side of
plain hungry, the large bowl is just the thing to share or to have all to
yourself. Pho Thang Long Restaurant, 15579 Brookhurst St., Westminster;
(714) 839-4955.



3. Pain au chocolat at À la Tarte, $2.75. Slightly crisp and golden brown on
the outside, this pain au chocolat is tender yet springy on the inside and
wonderfully flaky. And at the center is not just any chocolate, but a strip
of Callebaut, deep, dark and molten within the buttery layers of dough.
Owner Bonnie Abitbol, a self-taught American cook who lived in France for
nearly two decades, says she doesn't have a single mixer on the premises. So
the pain au chocolat, like all the pastries at A la Tarte, is made entirely
by hand. Á la Tarte. 1037 Swarthmore Ave., Pacific Palisades; (310)
459-6635.



4. Sashimi lunch special at Sushi Gen, $10.50. Lunch is often a better deal
than dinner at restaurants, but Sushi Gen's sashimi lunch special is in a
league of its own. First come the little dishes and bowls: assorted pickles,
a lovely sunomono, some silky tofu cubes simmered in beef broth, miso soup
in a covered bowl. Then the centerpiece, a rectangular ceramic platter
holding what looks like an architectural model of a sashimi town: little
towers of fish in all their fresh glory, with a hill of wasabi on one side
and a green patch of seaweed on another. It's a lot of fish, some just raw
slices, others made into salads. The selection changes day to day, but
there's usually tuna and yellowtail. You'll also get a bowl of fluffy rice.
Sushi Gen, 422 E. 2nd St., L.A.; (213) 617-0552.



5. Kibbeh maqliyeh plate at Sunnin Café, $5.50. It's no stretch to say that
Em Toni makes the best kibbeh maqliyeh around. What, you may ask, is kibbeh?
The Lebanese specialty is a walnut-sized torpedo-shaped meatball of lamb and
bulgur ground to a paste, filled with browned meat, onions and pine nuts and
deep-fried. The trick is to make the crust as thin as it can be without
breaking up as it fries. Many a Lebanese teenager has cried herself to sleep
because she hasn't mastered this exacting skill.

Em Toni has, though. Toni first surfaced at Al Amir Restaurant on Wilshire;
when it closed in 1996, she opened her own place in Westwood, where she
still makes much of the kibbeh (she's semiretired now, and her children make
the rest). Made from beef rather than lamb, it's a top-notch version.
Sunnin's kibbeh plate has four pieces with a bit of hummus and turnip pickle
on the side. Sunnin Lebanese Cafe, 1779 Westwood Blvd., West Los Angeles;
(310) 477-2358. Also available at its other location ($6.50 for three
pieces), 5110 E. 2nd St., Long Beach; (562) 433-9000.



6. Sunday night supper at Lucques, $35 for three courses. If you think your
pockets aren't deep enough to dine at Lucques, consider this: On Sunday
evenings, you can sit on the lovely patio and enjoy three courses at one of
the city's best restaurants for just $35. On a recent visit, dinner started
with dandelion and radicchio salad with pancetta, roasted wild plums and
crumbled goat cheese. There was a choice of main courses: grilled king
salmon with freshly dug potatoes, roasted cherry tomatoes and anchovy
vinaigrette (delicious); or "steak tartare poêlé," a roughly chopped steak
tartare with cornichons, shallots and parsley that had been quickly seared
on both sides, served with a huge mountain of herbed frites. Hard to decide?
Chef Suzanne Goin assures us you can get half orders of both main courses on
any given Sunday, which stretches the experience into four — count 'em, four
— courses. For dessert, we had bittersweet chocolate cake with noyau ice
cream. Noyau, in case you were wondering, is the pit of an apricot. The
flavor was superb. Accompanied by a 2001 Pic St. Loup, very reasonably
priced at $28, it was quite the swell evening. Lucques, 8474 Melrose Ave.,
West Hollywood; (323) 655-6277.



7. Asada taco, Tortas Mexico, $2.10. Tucked into a nondescript strip mall on
Ventura Boulevard, Tortas Mexico must have great tortas. We'll probably
never know, though, because the tacos are so good it's hard to resist
ordering them every time. Dreamy handmade corn tortillas, on the thick side,
with just the right amount of give, are 35 cents apiece. The asada is our
favorite. There's enough juicy, perfectly seasoned carne asada to divide
over two tortillas, so you'll want to spring for an extra one. Slathered
with their excellent salsa verde or pico de gallo, it's a happening on a
paper plate. Wash it down with a watermelon agua fresca. On Sundays, beware
— the place closes early (open Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.;
Sunday 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.). $2.80 with two handmade tortillas. Tortas Mexico,
11040 Ventura Blvd., Studio City; (818)760-2571.



8. Pastrami sandwich on rye at Langer's, $10.77 (tax included). Ten dollars
for a sandwich might not seem like a bargain, but it's far less than the 400
bucks you'd have to pay for an airline ticket to New York, where you'd
probably find pastrami almost as good. Everything about this sandwich at
Langer's is perfect: the hand-cut pastrami has a texture and flavor that
puts Carnegie Deli to shame, the rye bread (from Bea's Bakery in Reseda) has
startlingly good crust; add a little mustard, and it all comes together
magnificently. You can eat in at the old-timey deli (it's been around since
1947), but takeout is the thing do here: Call ahead and Langer's will not
only have your sandwich ready, it'll actually deliver it to your car. The
cook watches for you at the window; when you pull up, he comes out with
white bag in hand. Inside are your sandwich, neatly wrapped in paper,
pickles hermetically sealed in plastic, a wad of napkins and a red-and-white
mint. Now that's service. Langer's, 704 S. Alvarado St., Los Angeles; (213)
483-8050.



9. A dozen oysters on the half-shell at Ocean Ave. Seafood, $15. During the
"oyster happy hour" in the bar and at the oyster bar, this top-notch Santa
Monica seafood house offers an "oyster of the day" for $1.25 apiece; a dozen
is an even better deal. It could be Coromandels from New Zealand, Totten
Virginica from Washington state or Falsa Bays from California. You might
want to order one or two before you commit to a dozen since the varieties
are so different. Chase them down nicely with a $5 glass of the white wine
of the day (in this case a 2003 Dynamite Sauvignon Blanc from Lake County).
A number of appetizers are also available greatly discounted from the
regular menu — lobster taquitos for $6.50 (regularly $10.95); steamed Manila
clams (a couple dozen in a nice, white wine-herb broth) for $7.50 (regularly
$13.95); crisp and flavorful fried calamari with a good tartar sauce for
$4.50 (regularly $9.95). And there's always a $5 "bartender special house
cocktail," which changes every week or two. Right now, it's a rum runner,
juicy and delicious. And perfect with that ocean view. Oyster happy hour, 4
to 4:30 p.m. Monday to Friday, 3 to 6 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Ocean Ave.
Seafood, 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, (310) 394-5669.



10. Costillas de puerco en chile negro at Teresitas, $9.99. If it's
Wednesday, it's time to go to Teresitas. That's the only day it serves those
braised pork short ribs with that marvelous black chile sauce. Mildly spicy
and deeply complex, the sauce is made with black chiles toasted on the
grill, onion, garlic and a touch of Ibarra Mexican chocolate. Can't make it
on a Wednesday? Here's a great Pork Plan B: the carnitas plate, equally
priced and equally delicious. Technically, "carnitas" means "little meats" —
as in, bits of pork. But in this case, they're hardly little bits but great
hunks of flavorful meat that will fill many a tortilla. Both plates come
with excellent rice and beans too. Did we mention that the portions are
gigantic? Teresitas, 3826 E. 1st St., Los Angeles; (323) 266-6045.



11. Corkage at Rocca, free when the wine is purchased at Wine Expo. This is
one of the best wine deals going: If you're planning to dine at Rocca, Don
Dickman's personable Santa Monica trattoria, swing by Wine Expo first and
pick up a bottle of something Italian. That's not hard because owner Robert
Rogness specializes in Italian wines and Champagnes; he has one of the best
selections around. He's terrific at pointing out delicious bargain bottles.
Just show the silver Wine Expo sticker on the bottle when you get to Rocca,
and they'll waive the $10 corkage. Rocca, 1432A 4th St., Santa Monica, (310)
395-6765. Wine Expo, 2933 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 828-4428.



12. Butter-poached lobster at Opus Bar & Grill, $32. Yeah, yeah, we know $32
is a lot of money. But you'll spend quite a bit more elsewhere for the dish
Thomas Keller made famous — $46 at Providence, $47 at Water Grill. Opus'
version, which looks to be pulled from a 1 1/4 pound lobster, is sweet and
perfectly cooked, served lately with meltingly tender braised fennel, dried
tomato and deeply flavorful lobster bisque sauce. It's spectacularly
luxurious for the price. Opus Bar & Grill, 3760 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles;
(213) 738-1600.



13. Hamburger at Pie 'n Burger, $5.45. This classic old-fashioned burger —
one of our favorites in the world — is best enjoyed at the wood-grain
Formica counter at the Pasadena landmark. Tall and proud in its collar of
white paper, the nicely cooked (i.e., not overdone) patty is adorned by a
stack of crunchy iceberg lettuce, a slathering of Thousand Island dressing
and plenty of pickles. The bun is undistinguished, but somehow perfect. This
is one of the few burgers on earth that doesn't need ketchup or a slice of
tomato — it's just got that gorgeous burger gestalt. Pie 'n Burger, 913 E.
California Blvd., Pasadena; (626) 795-1123.



14. Blood orange ice at DiDio's Italian Ice, $2.50. At an almost painfully
cute little storefront on Montana Avenue, fans wait at the counter for a
scoop of probably the best Italian ice in town. Bob Didio has been making
his most popular flavor from fresh-squeezed, blood orange juice for about
six years. The flavor is very pure, very clear, very grown-up. The season
starts in January when blood oranges appear in the market; he squeezes
enough juice to last approximately through August. "I actually like wrapping
it up," he says. "If I ran it all year 'round, it would be a nonevent." In
September, he says, he'll start offering pomegranate ice. DiDio's Italian
Ice, 1305 Montana Ave., Santa Monica; (310) 393-2788.



15. 13-course menu at Yong Su San, $22.99. You can almost randomly choose
one of the set menus for lunch or dinner at this serenely elegant Koreatown
restaurant; they range from $14.99 to $49.99. The Su Table d'Hote menu
begins with "soft creamy porridge," which is like a winter squash soup. Then
it proceeds with terrific jellyfish and finely julienned cucumber in a spicy
mustard dressing; a refreshing bean sprout, radish and apricot salad;
fabulous mung bean noodles with beef, mushroom and seaweed; Kaesung-style
steamed pork — slices of pork belly with a fish dipping sauce and a stack of
kimchi; egg-battered fish and zucchini; Kaesung-style "wrapped kimchi,"
which has been fermented inside a whole cabbage; clear noodles stir-fried
with vegetables; sea scallops on a skewer with mushrooms; a sesame-dressed
salad; beef barbecue on an aromatic bed of grilled onions. Then your choice
of several types of rice soup. And finally, a lovely, cold, gingery
persimmon punch and a little ginger cookie. Two-person minimum for the set
menus. Yong Su San, 950 S. Vermont Ave., Los Angeles; (213) 388-3042.



16. Souvlaki plate at Papa Cristo's, $8.99. Bargains abound at this popular
taverna-deli in the mid-city Byzantine-Latino quarter. The octapodakia, for
instance — a generous platter of grilled baby octopus served with lemon
wedges for $5.99. But the souvlaki kebab is extraordinarily good: six big
chunks of marinated lamb loin, laced with bell peppers and onion and grilled
to perfection. With it comes an outsized portion of homey roast potatoes, a
small Greek salad, wonderfully fresh pita bread and yogurt-dill sauce. Papa
Cristo's, 2771 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 737-2970.



17. Literati salad, at Literati II, $10. Huge portions, first-rate food and
attractive prices make Literati II, the casual West L.A. spot where Chris
Kidder presides at the stove, prime territory for bargain-hunting. Many of
the first courses, including the snazzy $8 bruschetta with baby octopus and
the $10 Caesar, are large enough to serve two. We particularly love the
Literati salad — endive, arugula and shaved fennel, punctuated with dried
cherries, dressed in a lovely citrus vinaigrette and topped with an herbed
goat cheese crouton dotted with pistachios. The whole is unexpectedly better
than the sum of its parts. Chalk it up to the dressing? Literati II, 12081
Wilshire Blvd. (at Bundy), Los Angeles; (310) 479-3400



18. Spanish tapas platter at Ciudad, $16.50. We have a hard time not
ordering this every time we dine at Ciudad, so good, so varied and so
generous it is. Who could resist? Triangles of torta Española, a potato
omelet, have squiggles of Peruvian chile aioli. A toast point pairs
oven-dried tomatoes and boquerones (white anchovies). Half a deviled egg is
dusted with paprika. Honey is drizzled over Manchego cheese and arugula. A
bright-red piquillo pepper is stuffed with creamy avocado and goat cheese.
Paper-thick slices of serrano ham are piled next to morcilla (blood
sausage). Add to that spiced almonds, marinated olives and roasted red and
poblano peppers, and it's terrific however you divide it. The platter makes
an ample lunch or a light dinner for two, rounded off by the mixed-seed and
chile flat breads made from tortillas that come in a basket with hummus and
tapenade. Or a very generous appetizer for four. Ciudad, 445 S. Figueroa
St., Los Angeles; (213) 486-5171.



19. Trenette alla carbonara at La Buca, $12.25. At this tiny trattoria near
Raleigh Studios, the pasta is made by hand every morning, according to the
owner's mother's recipe (Loredana Cecchinato will return from Italy in a
month or two to resume pasta-making duties). The trenette, which translates
as "ribbons," are like tagliatelle, but a little wider. The texture is
amazing — fine and springy — and the pasta convincingly soaks up the eggs,
cheese and bacon of the carbonara sauce. Handmade spinach-and-cheese-filled
ravioli (try it with raddichio cream sauce; $11.75) is also terrific. La
Buca, 5210 1/2 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 462-1900.



20. Chicken basket at Reddi Chick BBQ, $7.95. Reddi Chick is a way of life
for untold numbers of Westsiders, and the BBQ chicken is one reason why (the
other reason is the ribs). In the basket are half a golden, crisp-skinned
chicken, a nice mountain of fries and tangy BBQ sauce to dip it all in.
Unless you're the supersize type, it's enough for two to share. Don't think
about taking it home, though; it doesn't travel well. Better anyway to eat
it there, taking in the scene around the firepit at the Brentwood Country
Mart's picnic tables. It's properly messy, so don't forget to beg for extra
napkins. Reddi Chick BBQ, Brentwood Country Mart, 225 26th St., Brentwood;
(310) 393-5238.

Anonymous said...
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
Miles said...

you can't beat astro family restaurant for good, hearty diner food. best corned beef hash in town!

i'm in total agreement about cirxa. ate their once and ick.

Anonymous said...

cirxa is only temporarily closed for remodel. they are still open limited hours thu-sun. but i agree, they are awful. one of my worst meals in los angeles.

Cybele said...

I've been to cirxa about a dozen times and have always enjoyed the pecan encrusted chicken breast with mango salsa - but I have never had good service there ... and I have pretty low standards for service. I don't think the place needed a remodel - it needed training for the wait-staff.

I've been to Dusty's and though the food was decent (the crabcake appetizer was great), for that price I'd rather go to Cafe Beaujolais in Eagle Rock.

I'm also eager to hear how Aroma is, as it's within walking distance.

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