The ABC's of BLT Steak

P is for popovers, the enormous airy cheesy bread puffs the restaurant is known for. Don't miss these. (Here's the recipe, by the way.)

BLT -- anyone who's been to New York or loves steak knows this doesn't stand for bacon lettuce tomato, but for Bistro Laurent Tourondel. Tourondel is the Frenchman who launched several New York restaurants and then expanded into a dozen or so other cities with his modern steakhouse concept. L.A.'s BLT Steak opened last year in the former Le Dome space, with all the elements a Sunset Strip restaurant needs: a patio open to the Sunset Plaza people parade, killer cocktails, food much better than the neighborhood deserves and a pretty, open design.
BLT Steak invited a few writers last week to taste some dishes from new chef Brian Moyers, formerly of Nobu and the Beverly Wilshire's BLVD, along with wine pairings from beverage director Jared Heber -- and Tourondel himself stopped by to say hi as well, though he must not get much time to cook these days.
Here's what you need to know at BLT, ABC style.
B is for barigoule, the tangy artichokes with lemon and garlic that sit under the halibut entree below -- a healthy alternative to the mega-steaks.
G is for gnudi, little pillows of ricotta that are kissing cousins to gnocchi, and do a nice job of sopping up the sauce from the intensely meaty, tender shortribs -- my favorite dish of those we tried.
K is for Kobe sliders on the bar menu -- $16 for three, and there's also a nice selection of craft beers, and a TV that pleased last week's basketball fans. Someone Twittered recently that these were well worth a try.
and R is for rhubarb tart, which you should definitely save room for if you can go easy on the popovers.
BLT Steak
8720 Sunset Blvd.
West Hollywood
(press dinner)