Thursday, September 04, 2008

Palate reviewed in the Los Feliz Ledger

Palate Food & Wine got one of my rare four-fork reviews in the Los Feliz Ledger this month. I know I'm not exactly alone in liking this place, but it's so refreshing to have such a grown-up restaurant on this side of town. I'm looking forward to trying the wine bar in the back next time. Here's an excerpt from the review:
The restaurant makes its own butter and cures its own lardo; soon to come is more house-cured salumi. Wines are heavy on France but with a good selection also from Italy, Austria and the U.S., and can be ordered in small 2.5 oz. tasting pours, regular glasses or larger quartinos perfect for two people. For dinner: a good start is the porkfolio, a platter of cured meats with a trio of mustards, or Mason jars of potted chicken, pork, and other spreads. Much of the menu is buttery and porky, so balance these plates with lighter fare like vegetable brodo that comes with its own cruet of broth, corn ravioli; or beet, apple and fennel salad. There’s usually a scallop dish, carefully sautéed with corn or other garnishes, and a fish or two—skate wing was a bit chewy, but flavorful with pine nuts and raisins. Decadent pork belly and oxtails with bone marrow both call for a sturdy red.
Palate is about how the whole place works together—the choices of seating areas, the foodies-meet-Glendale crowd, the reasonably-priced wine list and the general of-the-moment buzz. Although the kitchen sometimes has trouble pacing the various courses of food and wine, it hardly seems to matter when the atmosphere is right.


Anonymous said...

i must have been the only person on earth who did not like this place as much as everyone else....

carter said...

Love the food and atmosphere, especially when they turn down the lights when day passes into night. Quite effective.
If a brined dish is offered, take it. I don't like anchovies, yet was offered a brined anchovy/plum item one night that was sensational. Just typical of what that kitchen can cook.
Octavio, Gary and Jason are VERY good quality chefs and the end result is superb food. Sometimes the menu variety is not my favorite, yet the next time I return, it has changed as it does frequently.
And Steve's wine list - yeah!