With the original Third Street Doughboys finally re-opened after some remodeling, I finally got around to trying the newer Hollywood outlet. The first thing I noticed is that the lunch crowd in Hollywood is a lot different than the staid workers on Wilshire or even the actress/slackers on Third. Girls in hotpants and towering red platforms! Guys with mohawks and expensively ripped "punk" pants! Mare Winningham! LA Weekly staffers! Russian models! I used to like Doughboys quite a bit, but recent reports haven't been too good, so I wanted to see if there was still a reason to go.
First the Pros:
The menu is maybe even bigger than the Third St. branch, breakfast is served all day, and unlike a lot of places in town, it's easy to find something that sounds good.
When the food arrives, it comes in enormous portions with no surprise, lots of extra bread, even on the salads. My pan bagnat (tuna sandwich) didn't come on round bread as promised, but it was a nice change from mayonaisey tuna salad, with plenty of capers and olives. Amy was happy with her Doughboys salad (pictured above) which seemed to have nearly everything in it. And there was enough to take home for dinner.
I was happy to see items like whole grain pancakes and malted cornmeal cakes on the breakfast menu which are nearly impossible to find elsewhere.
And prices are pretty reasonable, especially as compared to the rather precious Ammo across the street.
Now the Cons:
If you go to the Hollywood location, you simply must wait for a table inside. Highland Ave. is as deafening as Manhattan. And don't be fooled by the seemingly quieter side street tables; they face a semi truck customizing operation or motorcyle noise testing ground or something.
The service, at least outside, is pretty slow and most of the parking meters in the area are one hour, so you're going to have a hard time getting in and out in a timely way.
And there's the griminess factor: this place is nearly brand new, so why do the menus and the tables seem as sticky as the old place? Maybe it's time to rethink some of the surfaces.
If you're looking to eat very light or low carb, it's probably going to be hard to find something here, as the emphasis is on comfort food, bread, and the wonderful red velvet cake.
Verdict: I would definitely return, especially for breakfast -- but sit inside this time.