Skuna Bay Salmon: There's more fish in the sea

Bluefin tuna is seriously overfished. Local Southern California seafood is seen on few menus. What's an avid pescatarian to do? Farmed salmon too has been thought to be a sustainable faux-pas, but Skuna Bay salmon, from the cold, clean Pacific waters off Vancouver Island, is out to change that perception.
The British Columbia fishery is launching the salmon to chefs first in Los Angeles, and says it's possible to produce a sustainable, responsible and delicious responsibly-farmed salmon that preserves wild stock.

A raw salmon with pesto mousse, fava beans, dust

We tried Skuna Bay salmon at a Drago Centro tasting dinner for chefs to see what they could expect from cooking with Skuna Bay salmon. Located off the coast of Vancouver Island, Skuna Bay's farm is designed for far less environmental impact than the average farm: the pens are moved around the area so that toxins don't become concentrated in one place, and the fish are far less crowded (only 1.5% fish per pen) than in typical farms. It's being branded as craft-raised salmon rather than farm-raised.

The fish is packed in a recyclable cooler box (unlike most fish, which comes in styrofoam)

Skuna Bay is partnering with Santa Monica Seafood to launch this meaty fish in Los Angeles, mostly to restaurants though some will be available to consumers at Santa Monica Seafood stores. Chefs can order up recyclable cardboard cooler boxes with three 10-lb.-plus salmon each, and they're then trucked at consistent temperature to L.A. (never tossed around an airport loading dock like many fish).

Salmon crudo with panna cotta

The raw salmon was firm, mild and made terrific crudo. Drago chef Ian Gresik also made the salmon into tender agnolotti and then seared a filet served over crispy potatoes and Brussels sprouts with pancetta. The texture was much nicer than mushy farmed salmon, and yet less dense than wild salmon which can easily be overcooked. I'd say the Skuna Bay fishermen have found the salmon sweet spot, and while I'm no fish expert, the craft-raising approach sounds like a carefully-thought out solution to some of the problems facing commercial fishing. If you're interested in trying Skuna Bay salmon, ask at your favorite restaurants or pick some up soon at Santa Monica Seafood.

Bia Hoi: A little nosh, a little Vietnamese beer

Gingergrass's new annex Bia Hoi is up and running featuring its namesake beer, a Vietnamese fresh-beer style brew made in collaboration with Eagle Rock Brewery. At $4 a pint, the 3.8% alcohol beers is of course pricier than its 15 cent Vietnamese counterpart. But this is L.A., and it's a nice light beer just right for a warm summer evening. If you prefer something a little more hefty, there's Cháu Tiên Pale Ale from Carmel's Vietnamese brewer Tuan Chau Tien or Coronado Islander IPA. A small bar menu includes chicken liver pate toasts ($8), a mango/conch salad with shrimp chips($6), savory braised pork and bacon bao (at left) and steamed mussels ($8). The wooden stools aren't really meant for lingering over a pitcher, but they evoke a Vietnamese fresh beer parlor and make a better spot to wait for a Gingergrass table than the sidewalk. During the day, baked goods and salads will provide quick lunches in the space. With new Vietnamese spots like Downtown's Blossom continuing to flood into Silver Lake, it's nice to see the area's original modern Viet restaurant keeping things fresh and sudsy.

L.A. Loves Alex's Lemonade: Everyone's a winner

Best visuals:Jonathan Waxman's shaved vegetable salad

Despite some muddy shoes, the sun came out along with chefs from around the country for one of the best tasting events of the year. Alex's Lemonade Stand Foundation sprang from the idea of a 4-year old girl with cancer who wanted to raise money to fight the disease. 11 years later, the organization that sprang from her lemonade stand has raised more than $45 million.

Biggest flavor: Animal's grilled quail with plum char siu, apple, yogurt

In L.A., restaurateurs Suzanne Goin, Caroline Styne and David Lentz came together to host the second L.A. Loves Alex's Lemonade fundraiser, assembling an impressive array of chefs from in town as well as New York, New Orleans, San Francisco and Chicago. Everyone was a winner, and I didn't have room to try the ice cream or pork belly #2 and #3 or several sausages and cheeses, but here's a few of my own personal high points.

Best cocktail: The Varnish's rum, Falernum and Grand Marnier punch

What I'd most like to find in my lunchbox tomorrow: Chicagoans Paul Kahan and Brian Huston's pork belly with fennel, raita and grilled flatbread

Most impressive chef/writer to meet: Prune's Gabrielle Hamilton

Best presentation: Mercato's sampler plate

Just delicious: The London's grilled octopus

Best on a blustery day: Providence's clam chowder w/clamcake

Most generous spread: Huckleberry Bakery ("It's like a dream!" gashed one woman)