Cliff's Edge: A menu makeover courtesy chef Ben Bailly

sea  bream en papillote

chickpea fritters

Cliff's Edge has always been one of those slightly disappointing Silver Lake restaurants -- great atmosphere, but if only the food were a few notches better. Locals were thrilled to hear recently that Ben Bailly would be taking over the kitchen, and I was invited last night to try a few items from the vastly improved and updated menu.

whipped ricotta/honey/lavender

When EatingLA last encountered young Ducasse and Robuchon-trained chef Bailly, he was constructing delicate fish-egg topped custards and such at Beverly Hills' Petrossian Caviar.  A few stops later, he's settled at Cliff's Edge, where it was a shame to waste such a killer patio on the former humdrum French bistro fare and gluey, overpriced pastas.

scallops with salsa verde

lemon brulee tart

The menu has been smartly retooled with a variety of small plates at reasonable prices -- a stack of chickpea fritters were a fun take on socca cakes, and whipped ricotta with lavender and honey also evoked the south of France. Hope you weren't too attached to the French fries with blue cheese sauce, the Caesar salad or the pumpkin ravioli, because they're all gone. In their place are rustic yet contemporary dishes like sea bream en papillote -- not often seen in L.A. -- lamb cheeks and skate wing. Desserts have also been upgraded from the former tired tiramisu -- pistachio creme brulee, lemon brulee tarte and Gianduja budino all showed more spark than the last bland cobbler I had there.
Cliff's Edge is one of the few places in the area for a boozy brunch with full bar, so I might have to return for dishes like Nutella French toast and a blood orange Margarita. And soon, chef Bailly will be cooking with fresh vegetables and herbs from just up the hill at owner Dana Hollister's Paramour garden, keeping things as local as possible.
The restaurant plans to keep diners focused on the food, as well as the patio, with upcoming events like winemaker dinners and guest stints featuring some well-known local chefs.
Now, if they could just take over the Edendale Grill...